ElCap Report 9/27/2014

ElCap Report 9/27/2014

By Tom Evans

Yo… Thicker clouds moved in last evening and we had some rain late last night.  When I arrived at the Bridge, around 8:15am, most of the clouds had lessened and the sun was in and out for most of the day.  As I am writing this report, at 6pm, it has started raining but not with much intensity.  We expect tomorrow to be a day of clearing and the weather to improve over the next two days.  The Captain is pretty empty at the moment but here is what I have for today.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Bad to the Bone:  The Canadians ledged up, with flys up, late last evening and stayed that way while I was there today.

Zodiac:  When I arrived, the Yellow bag team, Didi and Simon were already on the move from Peanut ledge.

1)  Climbing the demanding pitch above Peanut Ledge.



2)  Later in the morning they climbed the slab pitch and were off by around 4pm as near I can figure.






























Yesterday, after I left, Brian and Shayna bailed from the top of pitch 3.


Virginia to the Trip:  Neil and Maria lounged in their ledge until late morning and after a time Neil came out and lead the pitch to the intersection with the Trip.

3)  Neil leading above the portaledge while Maria gets some beauty sleep, inside.





























4)  After a time, Maria was forced out and cleaned the pitch while Neil hauled kit.





























New Dawn:  Doug and Dennis made ECT yesterday and ledged up for the poor weather.  They came out late in the morning and headed for the Nose route… So now we have them on New Dawn to the Nose. 

5)  This is a shot of their ledge on the far right side of ECT.


























Nose:  Two teams were on the Nose today.

6)  The lower team made short work of the Boot, after an early start from ECT.





























7)  They passed the KS nicely.  This is the “low” way to finish the King Swing.  Having your feet about 1 foot above the “Tan Band” is more efficient, but either way is good enough.






























8)  Higher they climbed past the “Triangular Block” that is only there due to the small area of contact with the wall on the left.  When I climbed it in 1971 it was just the same as today!  I would not put gear anywhere near this death block!!





























9)  The higher team bivied at Camp 4 and climbed toward Camp 5 as I departed.  Here is first light on Camp 4.





























10)  Great rock, highlights anyone’s climb of the Great Roof.




























11)  The only team on the Salathe Wall climbed from the Block to Sous le Toit ledge, in this shot, and were on the Headwall as I left around 4pm.






























In other news:  Mark Hudon and Skot Richards arrived at the Bridge this morning and quickly blasted on Son of Heart.  I haven’t seen that one done in ages so it should prove interesting to watch. 

Lots of climbers were at the Bridge today, to see the sights and hang out.  Fernando Motta’s family and several friends hiked to the big tree in the back of the meadow to remember this extraordinary man, who died in a BASE accident in the Spring of last year.

On a personal note… today is the 42nd birthday of my son Tom.  You will not meet a finer man or a better father than Tom.  Best wishes for many more birthdays go out to him!  With love, from your proud father!!

So that’s the way it is, on this Saturday, the 27th day of September, 2014.


Capt. Tom