ElCap Report 9/23/13

ElCap Report 9/23/13

By Tom Evans

Yo…We had another beautiful day here in Yosemite.  Lots of action of ElCap, so you will be seeing many pics on today’s Report.  The air was clear but surprisingly turbulent in the afternoon.  Remember, the Facelift starts tomorrow so get out here and pick up all that stuff that shouldn’t be on the ground.  We are expecting a big turnout this year.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The deuce team is the only one on the route and they climbed from the MOZ to Peanut Ledge while I was shooting.  I imagine they will stay there and fix one higher, but it wouldn’t surprise me if they pushed off the route in late evening.

Here they are climbing the Mark of Zorro, first thing this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North America Wall:  A team of three are on the route now, and are fully equipped, it would appear.  Thus enabling them to get …wait for it…. wait for it….

CONGRATULATIONS NA WALL TEAM …YOU HAVE WON THE

“STICK OF THE DAY”!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later in the afternoon I shot two of the team climbing on the 5th pitch, while “stick man” jugged out of view below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tribal Rite:  Kevin DeWeese was only a pitch from the top at 3pm and I assume he climbed off a little later. Just in from the top... Kevin topped out a while ago!!

Here he is starting the pitch to the Dawn Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kevin is seen here just one from the top!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  A two man team bivied at the top of 4 last night and soon were downward bound.

Mescalito team… you got it Bro’s!!   BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Today was Moon Day.  I was there, ElCap was there, the Moon was there…. Where the hell were you when I needed you in the shot?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several teams climbed upward from Dolt, while teams below retreated from view.  Here climbers are seen on the Grey Bands Traverse this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunkist:  Matt and Keenan pushed on toward the top today and may be off a bit after dark if they hustle some.  Flash just in from the Top of the Cap!!!  They topped out just moments ago at 8:13pm!!!

Here Keenan is leading the first, short, difficult pitch of the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later in the day Lambone finished the upper headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golden Gate:  Stefan and Teno bailed upward on the lines fixed by the practice crew a few days ago.

Horse Play:  Pete was just starting leading around 2pm when I got this shot.  What does that guy do all day?  The Black Arch, on the Dihedral Wall route, is on the right side of the view.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Octopussy:  Cheyne Lempe, Dave Allfrey, and Scott Deputy got up early to make a run at setting the record on this “different” route.  I understand there has never been a push on the route so if they summit they will get the record!  They are shooting for 24 hours or less. 

I got this shot of Scott cleaning while Cheyne gets ready to jug up to Dave, who is out of the view, above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here we see the whole team below and right of “Half Dome on ElCap” or if you wish, the original name, the “Octopus Head.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later in the afternoon, Cheyne had the lead while Dave and Scott lounged in the heat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:  Several teams are out there.  I spotted a team of 3 on the 7th pitch and then these teams lower down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Not much going on but the Facelift and the Bridge scene.  But some interesting stuff is in the works.  Stay tuned….

Lots of “remember when’s” hanging around… looking old and spraying all the stories!  Good fun!

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 23rd day of September, 2013.

Later Cupcakes,

Capt. Tom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stick of the day

What a weird stick move. The guy is in the step above the bottom step of his aider, using a short stick, and there is a QuickDraw on the bolt/piece after that. If you are going to cheat cheat big and clip the draw. Or just move up to your 2nd step and clip the piece yourself.

Thanks Tom!

Bail of the day

You can follow the bail on @lololilveier Instagram feed. Some good route shots in his feed.

Thank you tom for all you do.

Kevin on Tribal

Topped out and bivying on the top. The route stayed on even when cleaning the last pitch and a rusty fixed pin pulled and sent me sliding across the slab below the final roof. It ain't over till it's over.

We beat the sunset! Summit

We beat the sunset! Summit glory!

Go monkeys on Octapussy!!!!
Lambone

See you guys on the trudge

See you guys on the trudge down to the floor!