ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/23/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… the big, cold wind left in the night and today  was warm and comfortable. It's supposed to warm up this weekend but that didn’t seem to stop the teams from starting out on some good routes. The Face Lift crew was all over the place today and many of our big wall heroes lent a helping hand… something about getting a ticket for the raffle?! Anyway, the action on the SE Face of the Cap dominated the scene today.

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Waterfront: Holly and EE topped out around noon today and another smooth ascent is in the books for both climbers.

Eagles Way: The Flagstaff Boys were seen on the last few pitches today and were not up by the time I left at 3:30 pm but are surely down by now. They made it look easy up there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Flag Boys cruising the so called "A-1 beauty", one of the best cracks on the Cap.

　

Zodiac: A couple of speedy Swiss climbers went on a mission today and flew up the route in daylight. They did jump the line of a the team ahead of them in the White Circle so it “doesn’t really count” but who is counting anyway?!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

Swiss climber on the Mark of Zorro pitch, in early afternoon.

　

The Italians, Francesco and Silvano, moved along today and I think will be off by dark. They climbed well the whole time and seemed to be having a good time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Francesco on the top of the Devil’s Eyebrow.

Lower down the mystery team of two moved right along and it was from them that the Swiss used a line to do the Nipple pitch.

Tangerine Trip: The Trip is seeing a lot of action these days. The two climbers who had the route to themselves were on the first bolt ladder as I left this afternoon. They were joined by two teams of three today.

One team is composed of Gareth, Duncan and Sara. They did the direct start to the top of the regular 4^th pitch today. They were all dressed to please, particularly Sara, who started the day in a sweet little blue camisole that is stylish, yet utilitarian on those hot EC days. The outfit was topped by a fashionable pink helmet. Very nice! Later in the day, as the heat came up, she changed into a purple shirt that is all the rage on the big stone of late.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Direct start team slathering on the sunscreen, while the leader pounds pins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Direct start team skirting the Black Cat and Sombrero late in the afternoon.

The other team of three, on the regular start, is YOSAR guys Dave, Logan, and  Matthew. They climbed well and were gone from the 4^th pitch by the time the direct team got there. They are using the three man, short fixing system and are moving along well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

The big lower out, on the Trip.

　

Lost in America: A five man Korean team, from the Doori Climbing School, in Seoul, consists of, Chun Eon Sig, Whang chenng Sik, Lee Seok Ju, Lee Seung Jin, and Koou Jung bong. They climbed here last fall and have the necessary experience to do this route… I hope. They climbed the first pitch in the afternoon and will blast tomorrow I think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Trip direct start team on the left and two of the Korean team on the right.

NA Wall: The Stealth team climbed out of the Black Cave this morning and over the famous Roof Pitch… the so called .. “Most spectacular lead in American climbing” first lead by the great, Chuck Pratt. They quickly moved to the Cyclops Eye and onto the traverse out of there. I don’t think they will make the Igloo tonight but should be off tomorrow.

Lower down the other team went from Big Sur Ledge into the Black Dihedral this afternoon. Black Cave bivy tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

　

Climbing to the Black Dihedral on the North America Wall Route.

　

Pacific Ocean Wall: This team climbed leisurely today but made a couple of pitches before I left. They are headed to the Continental Shelf, maybe in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

At the belay on the PO Wall.

　

Mescalito: The two climbers from Denmark seem to have gotten stuck in first gear. I expected to see them at the Stork Ledge this afternoon and pass the Seagull….. But Nooooooo… they were on top of the third as I left. There is a line of guys wanting to get on the route in the next week so these strapping young lads had best find the accelerator soon.

Nose: Big Wall hero, Dave Turner, and local good guy, Josh McClure, reached the top of the Nose around 10am after doing the Half Dome/Nose link up yesterday. They did it in 17 hours! Nice stuff guys!

Lower down a team from yesterday climbed to the Boot and couldn’t seem to figure out the King Swing….is the topo in Supertopo screwed or something? They tried and tried from the toe of the Boot with no luck. Finally the swinger tension traversed down the long corner and went over at the small roof. But that all took a lot of time and as I departed they were at the small triangular roof at the start of the Gray Bands traverse.

Lower down two teams, or maybe a team of 4 climbed over Dolt and to ECT late in the afternoon. They fixed to the top of Texas and retired to the comforts of the spacious ECT.

Way below was a couple of teams who didn’t look so good but one may make it to Dolt and I think the other will bail.

Albatross: Pete was out on lead today as JP minded the store.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Piton Pete leading out just west of the Shield Roof.

　

Salathe: I did see a team on Sous le Toit but they were hardly visible and not moving much. I don’t know about them.

 

Lost World:  I need to get out west to see what is up... for now... who knows?

In other news: The Face Lift is going full on now and lots of people are participating. The evening events are drawing the crowds and the raffles seem to be well attended. It was quite nice at the Bridge today as the wind and cold gave way to sunny and warm.

Chris McNamara... the new I phone you dropped from above the White Circle last week was found today.... T2 is sending the remains!

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this Thursday, the 23^rd day of September, 2010.

Later … Tom