ElCap Report 9/20/13

ElCap Report 9/20/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Today, climbing continued on ElCap under very windy conditions.  The wind blew pretty hard from 10:30 to about 3pm today at the Bridge and one can only assume it was howling up higher.  However, I don’t think it caused any problems.  Tomorrow they are calling for a fair chance of rain, which would be very welcomed at this point. 

The leaves on Maples and Oaks are starting to turn now, but not like we want.  It seems the leaves are rapidly turning brown and then falling off the trees.  Not good!  The Sugar Maple, by the Chapel, is suffering the same fate thus far.


Today’s ElCap report .. written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Saku, the solo from Finland, should be spending his last night on the route at Peanut Ledge.  He has climbed well and has received some strong complements from the Bridge Crew.                        

1)  Here he is this morning finishing racking, as the light came on.






























Lower down the 3 guys, who started yesterday, moved right along and were finishing the Black Tower when I left around 3pm.

2)  I watched them haul to the start of the Tower with the thickest haul line I have ever seen!  Check it out!





























3)  Lost in America:  The Jim should be off the route by dark this evening.  He has done well.  Here he is getting ready to climb this morning.





























4)  Tribal Rite:  Kevin DeWeese continues to climb smoothly up the route.  Nice lighting enabled me to get some really cool shots of him.  He finished the Carrot this morning and climbed higher onto some really great looking rock.  Here are 4 shots of him.  Notice the Horse's head, near the bottom of the Carrot.




















































































































Nose:  The King of ElCap climbs, is seeing some serious traffic but is still protecting its’ reputation as a heart breaker.  Many go upward, and many come down.  Today we had two NIAD attempts, three triples and several deuces. 

8)  Mark and Zack started last night on a NIAD and climbed well until they suddenly bailed from the top of the Great Roof.  Here is Mark giving the ElCap Salute in the corner leading to Eagle Ledge.































9)  This shot shows the congestion as three deuces work the Boot area this morning.  Mark and Zack are the guys on the left, climbing from Eagle Ledge.





























10)  The second NIAD team was Tony Mayse and partner Freddy, both from Oklahoma.  Tony is a regular visitor with a particular liking for the Nose.  Here he is leading the sweet pitch above Dolt Tower.  The team flashed past everyone and were suddenly at the head of the mob, when the other NIAD bailed.  They completed the climb in 16 hours.  Freddy had never been up the Cap before and had nothing but good things to say about the climb!






























Near the top of the route I spotted the three guys from yesterday heading for the Alcove.  Off by now I assume.

Lower down several miserably dressed deuces dragged up the Legs, climbing as poorly as they looked.

Sunkist:  The Brits climbed off by early afternoon after a speedy ascent of the route.

Lower down, Matt and Keenan finally reached the first of the headwall pitches.  Matt was on the lead when I departed. 

11)  This shows Matt cleaning the nasty, tight chimney that you may recall gave Hudon some problems in the spring.  Keenan has just finished hauling the short pitch.































Dihedral to Horse Play:  Think of the shot of Pete from yesterday…now move everything up 80ft.  That’s where I spotted him today.  The air over on the west side was very turbulent and I couldn’t get a clear shot of him.

Lurking Fear:  As you know, I never shoot Lurking Fear… well… desperation moves many, me included.  Here are some random dudes on the Windowpane

12)  Flake pitch..as I recall it is the third pitch.  The dark, weird looking flake is indeed the Windowpane Flake which gets very thin on its left side.






























In other news:  The Face Lift is coming soon and goes from 24 to 29 Sept.  Be there or be square!

13)  Nice crowd, of mostly climbers, hanging at the Bridge today.  They did dent the beer supply but we are still well stocked.  Aaron Jones…I see you!  Anyway a good time was had by all.  As much as I dislike Yosemite in the rain, I am hoping it will come tomorrow.  Stay tuned folks.



















Thought of the Day:  You can get a new heart, but that doesn’t give you a new life.

So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 20th of September, 2013.

See you at the Face Lift, if not sooner.








thank tom

Hi tom, thanks for taking some shots of me and zac on our niad bid, it was a great day up there. Cheers mark

Tribal Rite

Amazing shots there Tom - absolutely beautiful.

Your horses head thing is driving me crazy - I don't see it and have tried everything, including standing on my head.

In Seattle Jonesing for the Valley.


Horse head

Look on the carrot for a side profile of a small horse head relief. It's like it's looking straight down. Smaller than you think.

Nice Report and Nice Photos

Thanks Tom.

Another well documented day in the Valley.

Hope to stop by during the Facelift next week. Hope the rain stays away for my visit, otherwise I'm worse than useless.