ElCap Report 9/20/09

ElCap Report 9/20/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Killer weather and the wall is pretty empty save the Salathe and upper Nose.  Get here and get on it!  Plus the Face Lift is just a couple of days away now… come on up and put some effort into keeping the park looking good.  Sundays are always kind of slow at the Bridge and today was no exception.  Nice to have some quiet for a change.
Today’s ElCap Report just for your eyes only… remember .. It’s unique in all the world.

Zodiac:  The two man Japanese team made the top today in early afternoon.  They were the guys in Blue, the last in the line of three teams topping out in the past two days.  They did well and I hope they will stop by the bridge to get some shots of their climb.  The route sits empty now but I did see some lurkers around the base in the afternoon.

Lost in America:  The speedy team of Dave, Chip and Scott started on the route yesterday are on a push up the route.  They must be getting pretty tired by now.  They climbed through the night and were last seen a couple of pitches from the top as I left around 4pm.
1)  Dave, leading the LA crew, heading for the barn.

























Trip:  The Norwegians topped out around 4 in the afternoon today.
Lower down Ottawa Doug and Mike climbed from the top of 8 to the top of 11 today.  Doug is used to “slow but steady” so the pace is not the fastest but just right for enjoying the climb.
2)  Ottawa Doug leading off the 10th pitch on the Trip.

























Nose:  The 3D team from yesterday was not to be seen from the Bridge today so I guess they were off or in the upper dihedrals.
Lower down the two guys who had such a bad time on the King Swing two days ago were seen climbing into Camp 5 this afternoon.
Below them the team of three whose leader did the cartwheels back across the KS were close on the heals of the team of two and probably will stay at C5 tonight. 
Below them the team of two that was dragging up the Legs yesterday must have gotten a second wind and made ECT last night.  They cruised the King Swing in one go and were heading to C4 later in the afternoon.  I sort of recall a team of two leading the pack earlier in the day … so maybe it was the 3D team after all..  My memory is not the best and I refuse to take notes!!

Shield:  Chris slept in until a little past noon and slowly worked her way up the pitch after the triple cracks this afternoon.  Today is a casual day for her and she may just do one pitch by the time it is over… maybe she just wants to have some fun and get some extra pics!!
3)  Chris climbing above her ledge today on the Shield.  The Canoe is in the upper left of the shot.


























Salathe/Freerider.   Brian and Sandra took the lead of the groups who had fixed to HFL yesterday and they climbed well.  The mixed Euro team caught them at the Ear and they climbed the Monster while Brian lead the original Salathe route pitch above.  It was a race to the belay that the Swiss guy won.  They all seemed to be having a good time chatting on the top of the Ear.  They will most likely stay at the Alcove or ECS tonight and maybe fix a couple above.
4)  Swiss climber, Cedric, above the 5.7 chimney above HFL while his Belgian partner, Chloe belays.  That guy is strong!




























5)  Sandra climbing to the Ear pitch while Brian takes a nap at the belay!



























6)  Sandra hauls the bags while Brian comes up taking out gear. 



























7)  Cedric, climbing the Monster Crack above the Ear, while Sandra packs bags and Chloe belays.


























Above them a three man team of Spanish climbers couldn’t seem to find the route to Sous le toit ledge and ended up climbing a pitch higher in the corner and tension traversing down and over to the ledge.  It was looking like an epic in the making but they worked it out.
8)  Spanish leader attempting to climb to Sous le Toit… he was on the right track but balked a couple of moves short of the easy climbing up the corner to the ledge.


























Low on the route a couple of guys were climbing above HFL late in the morning and were at the Ear after the two mixed teams departed.

In other news:  I need to get some rest so I will close now.
So that’s the way it is for this the 20th day of September 2009.
Be Safe



Looks like you've got any camera issues you had worked out. Those shots are crisp and beautiful! Thanks for doing this for everyone!

-Chris Brown



I have a few friends starting up the free blast today (monday) and then continuing up the salathe tomorrow. Any shots of them would be awesome.

Also Two other friends should be topping out the nose today, or possibly yesterday... Any info would be appreciated.

- Luke

3D Mixed Party...

Hey Tom!

That was Robin and I going for her first El Cap. She RAGED it! I gotta go to work now...see ya next weekend!


Italian friends

Hello Tom,
from the italian girls who were there in June! Hope all is well-... from the reports all seems wonderful there! There should be two italian friends who just arrived.. should be getting their hands on Tangerine Trip soon. I hope you will be able to meet them although I don't think they speak much english! Nice guys though and we (group of italian friends stuck working in offices...) look forward to see some of your pics of them also. Lots of luck to everyone who is lucky to be climbing in Yosemite!

French mix team

The french mix team in Salathe isnt french. That is a girl from Belgium and a guy from Switzerland.

Mr. Ansel Evans

Thanks for keepin' the dream alive.
Like Ekat says, The magic.
How 'bout that Ottawa Doug, eh?
Virginia.....A cool Trip Variation.
That boy climbs on El Cap. The Tall Stone.


Great stuff Tom

As usual, Shield shots are always my personal favorites...

Salathe/Freerider group here are best for the actual climbing taking place.

Thanks for the post

Got to love it

Great stuff, always great report. Tom you are the king of el cap.