ElCap Report 9/19/13

ElCap Report 9/19/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Beautiful weather continues to send the crews marching to the Captain.  Lots of action on the Nose, but not much else.  I had a shot of Joe fixing the brakes on my van yesterday and hear that one can’t legally fix cars in the Valley.  I’m not sure if it is true, but you can see what a problem it could cause, so use the local garage for work requiring removing or replacing parts. 

The Face Lift is coming in a week or so and we would like all the help we can get to clean up the park.  Great entertainment is on hand with the premier showing of the film, “Assault on ElCap” kicking off the event.  If you have ever been to a Face Lift then you know it is a lot of fun and valuable prizes will be given away.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac:  So far, Saku, from finland, is getting it done in good style.  Here he is climbing into the White Circle this morning.



























2)  Later in the day he was at the start of the Nipple Pitch.  Notice the Nipple pitch goes up and right of him and the 9 O’clock Roof is down and left.




























Lower down I spotted a team of two climbing the first two pitches.

Lost in America:  Jim Bayer climbed off the route and onto ZM late in the day.  He has a few pitches left to go.

3)  He is seen here climbing off the belay on one of the crux pitches.






























4)  Tribal:  I didn’t get a very good shot of Kevin DeWeese today but here he is climbing to the ledge at the base of the Carrot.





























Nose:  The Nose is loaded with several large teams.  Three seems to be the magic number today as there were 3 such teams, one of 4, and a couple deuces.

5)  These guys lounged on ElCap Tower for most of the morning and you know what that means!  Kevin texting from Tribal Rite above them, says they dropped one of their ropes.  How does a climber "drop" a rope?




























6)  Congratulations lads!!  YOU WON THE BAIL OF THE DAY!!!





























7)  A team of three to include, “No pants” Ben, his buddy Max, and Jorg , made pretty good time on a NIAD shot.  Here seen above Dolt Tower.




























8)  Higher up, another team of three is seen here hauling bags to the start of the Great Roof.






























9)  Much higher is the 4 man Korean team that has been on the route for a few days.  Here the lead climber starts the last pitch.






























10)  3D:  Around the corner from the Nose is the first two thirds of the route and this afternoon I spotted Curt Lyons and Kevin Mokracek on the Muir portion, above Mammoth Terrace.  I am guessing the “Orange Man” is Curt.  Edit.... they bailed the next day from Grey Ledges, in the morning.




























11)  Sunkist:  A little further west of the 3D I spotted Matt and Keenan on the traverse pitches to the start of the upper headwall.  Here Keenan is leading through a thin section of weird looking rock.  Earlier Matt made a difficult pendulum to climb to the belay.




























12)  Higher up the Brits climbed to the upper part of the headwall and will be off tomorrow.  Here they are as the morning light illuminated them.





























13)  Dihedral to Horse Play:  Old Piton Pete is moving higher in what must be some nasty heat.  Several parties have bailed out west in the past few days, but Pete is soldering on.  Here he is on the Horse Chute part of the route where it goes left past the Triangular Roof while the regular Dihedral goes right.  Tough going out there in the afternoon heat and glare.  Hang in there Bro!





























I didn’t spot anyone west of Pete.

14)  Here is a shot of the ElCap Tree… dead now, from several years of drought.  Someday, in the distant future, one of its offspring will replace it, using the decaying roots and remains for subsistence.  I won’t see it, but it will be there.




























In other news:  Most of the introduction should have gone down here but I wanted to make sure you paid attention to it. 

The beer restocking effort has been a great success, thanks to the generosity of the readers of the Report!  Several people hand delivered the goods right to the Bridge, just in case some exhausted, filthy, thirsty climbers were too far gone to wait for me to make the run to the store.  I have the reserve funds, you guys sent, and will use them as needed.  Many thanks!!

“Thought of the Day” comes from Woody Allen.  “I don’t want to gain immortality through my work.  I want to gain immortality by not dying!”

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 19th day of September, 2013.


Capt. Tom














When do you come and go from El Cap Bridge? I'm going to be in the Valley next weekend and would love to come by and say hi.


Yo... I am there from about 9am until around 2pm unless it is raining or snowing.  Regards  Tom Evans

Kevin on Tribaldawn

The team that bailed off the nose dropped one of their ropes as they reached El Cap Tower. I watched it fall all the way to the ground. Wonder if they found it?


Kevin... how is it going there Bro?  Looks like you are doing just fine up there... great pitches to follow.  I left at 2:30 today... did you do the Carrot this afternoon?  I should get some nice shots of you in the Morning... keep it going and best of luck.   From Tom Evans

Kevin on Tribaldawn

Having a great time. With plenty of water a food, it's nice to have a relaxed pace. The pendulum to the ledge at the top of pitch four was the highlight and I'm fixed one above. The carrot was awesome, camhook, camhook, nut, repeat. Epic wind during the afternoon though, blech.