ElCap Report 9/17/10

ElCap Report 9/17/10

By Tom Evans

Yo... with the exception of some haze from fires to the south, it was a nice here in the Valley today.  There is still a lack of climbers on the Captain but I think the situation is about to change.  The weather looks good with only a slight chance of rain on Sunday.  It is kind of slow around here these days so come on out so I will have something to write about and not have to make up stuff, like Pete having 20 porters taking his gear to the rock!  Maybe you should review the disclaimer on the Home page if you are believing everything you read here!

Today's ElCap Report... written just for you... unique in all the world!

 

Zodiac:  The Steve Wampler show came to a conclusion just before 5 this afternoon.... he made the top in front of a lot of friends and  family.  I got down there to shoot him a little after 9am and he was already jugging off Peanut Ledge.  I think it was the first time he jugged in the mornings cool air.  He made good progress and was at the belay by about 11 as I recall.  He had a long rest and was back at it heading for the top around 2pm.  He took about 2 and 1/2 hours to complete the climb.  Dave Lane was tending to him for most of the day and did yeoman service.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve jugging above Peanut Ledge in mid morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dave Lane tends to the kit after lowering Steve out for the final jug to the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Dave Lane clears the line from the lip as Tommy Thompson watches Steve end the climb on top of Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tommy Thompson, Dave Lane, and Steve on top of Zodiac.  I bagged this shot from Supertopo.com.

 

Lower down the Korean team that is blasting in two days sent a fixing crew on the route today.  They reached the top of the 4th pitch and were off by mid afternoon.

 

Tangerine Trip:  The team of three Danes moved well up the center part of the route and were on the first bolt ladder pitch by the time I departed around 5pm.  They are doing well and should be off tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mads leads off while Jakob and Sten have a morning game of cards on the portaledge.

 

Mescalito:  Brits, Neil and Callum committed to the route today after fixing the first four a few days ago.  They moved past the Sea Gull pretty smartly and were a couple of pitches higher as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Passing the Sea Gull low on Mescalito.

 

Nose:  The Aussies Bret and Carl spent the night on ECTower and were just finishing the King Swing as I arrived this morning.  I last saw them on the Great Roof as I left the Bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lowering off the Boot after the King Swing.

 

The team that was just behind them yesterday (NC boys?) passed them and were allready at the Gray Bands when I arrived.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pendulum into the Grey Bands on the original Nose route.

 

They climbed rapidly across the traverse to C4 and were on the Great Roof by afternoon.  They dispatched that in good order and climbed the Pancake Flake free up to the last part which I recall is 11b or something like that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stepping up smartly on the Pancake Flake.

 

Lower down the route was crowded.  A team from yesterday bailed from Dolt and by the end of my time there I counted 4 teams grinding up the Stovelegs.  The lead team moved along reasonably well and I have got to say that they were all dressed to the nines with their best "look at us" shirts.  The last teams in line were a long way from Dolt by the time I left, but none seemed ready to quit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pay attention to this photo.... notice that these guys have figured out how to get their picture taken!  Bright colors Rule!!  Unfortunately they bailed from ECT the next day.  Bern and Richard from the UK started today and I thought  this might be a shot of them, but they are a pitch higher and out of this shot.

 

In other news:  The Bridge was jammed all day with supporters of Steve Wampler who had come to see the end of the climb.  They were a loud and rowdy bunch who were obviously having a great time yelling up to Steve and Crew.  The party reached its climax as Steve topped out.  This ascent has been on the Network TV nightly news the past several nights.  I feel certain that Steve will never want to do this again!  His crew was marvelous and deserves all the praise it will receive!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As Steve tops out .... the crowd goes wild!!

 

Anyway, the next week should bring some action and fun with the Facelift drawing climbers from all over the place.  The nightly shows are going to be killer and a good time will be had by all..... so come on out!

So that's the way it is, on ElCap, for this Friday the 17th day of September, 2010.

I'm out of here.... Tom Evans

 

 

Yo Tom!!!! Keep a weathered

Yo Tom!!!! Keep a weathered eye on my Mid-Western homies! Matt Schwartzkopf and his bud "Pinto." Launched yesterday or today on Salathe. They'll be blasting and muy fuerte!!!! They said they'd try to swing by the bridge. I got the donation for the disc if they don't have it when they get down. Looking at the Sheild with "pooptube" (Kia Ravenfar) the first week in October hope you're there and willing to accept a token of our appreciation. Thinking of you you and hope all is well with your family...

keep it clean. Mom is watching.

doktor_g (Grover Shipman)

Its great to see the picture

Its great to see the picture of Richard and Bernard. Richard has got the yellow back pack on and his son Xavier is really excited to follow the blog and see his Dad progress up the climb. We are hoping for lots more photos.
 
Turns out this is not them but they were a pitch higher and just as colorfull!  Tom Evans

Nice report Tom! Lots of

Nice report Tom! Lots of company at the bridge today. Way to go Steve!!

Great Stuff Any of those

Great Stuff Any of those people on the Bridge bring you any Cobras :)

Russ