ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/9/16

By Tom Evans

Yo… Today was a beautiful day for climbing with high clouds and cooler temperatures.  Lots of action on the cliff but spread among several routes.  Triple Direct seems to be getting the most action these days...or maybe Double Direct would be more like it.  DD is the top two thirds of the 3D.  The first third is jugging and hauling the fixed lines to Mammoth Terrace.  Anyway, no matter how you do it, ElCap is a worthy investment of your time.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

1) Zodiac:  Kristen and Nick climbed past solo climber Maria this morning and were rolling along by the time I left.  Here is the approach to the pass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2) Kristen led the bolt ladder as the light came on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Later in the day she led the Black Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4) Maria was soon out on lead and was at the Black Tower when I left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  On the Trip, the Korean team of 4 is making excellent time up the route.  Here they are as the light came on today.  Later I saw them climbing to the start of the first bolt ladder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Lower down a two person mixed team blasted on the route after fixing one yesterday.  Here they are at the 3^rd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Over on Gulf Stream Neil Chelton was on some tricky rock and had difficulty finding the line…lots of knob hooking here folks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Over on the NA, Sam and Rhett passed the traverse pendulums and were climbing the Black Dihedral in this shot.  I suspect they will bivy in the Black Cave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Higher up on the NA, after the Black Cave bivy, Dustin lead the famous Roof pitch, described by Robbins on the first ascent as “The most spectacular lead in American climbing”.  Here Mark is cleaning the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Later in the afternoon I got this shot from out west of Mark cleaning up to the Cyclops Eye… I think they are pushing on to the Igloo to bivy.  Strong team here folks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  The Muir has a two-person team on it now. Here they are on the early pitches of the upper part of the route. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  A few teams were on the Nose.. most via the 3D.  Here is Nick Martino and wife Jenn who spent most of the day lounging on Camp 5!  Nick is watching me take the shot I think!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down several teams were dragging up the Legs with uncertain outcomes.

 

13)  The fixed lines to Heart are getting a workout this season… lots of freight hauling… "loads" of fun!! Steve Schneider with the kit while Jordan Cannon hauls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  I spotted this crew of three climbing onto the Salathe headwall this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Last but far from least, out on Octopussy, John Selove made the Pinnacle of Hammerdom this afternoon.  He has slowed down a bit but continues to make good progress on his solo effort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The weekend will soon be upon us… so… I will try to get the report out daily but no guarantees.

So that’s the way it is, on this Thursday, the 9^th day of June, 2016.

Telephoto Tom… manning the Big Gun…just so you can see it all, on the Cap!