ElCap Report 6/26/10

ElCap Report 6/26/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The season has slipped into the record books. The Captain is pretty much deserted now. Why? Not because of the weather. Not because of the heat. Not because of the route closures. Not because there are no climbers. But, because of climber apathy. Yep, it seems that the climbers here are doing other things at the moment. So I am closing out the ElCap Report for the Spring season of 2010.

It is always interesting to drive into the Valley in the spring, wondering what these days and weeks will bring us. This has been a good spring, in spite of early weather concerns.

The Big Solo’s have been the backbone of the season. Tribal Rite by two climbers including Mark Hudon, who became the oldest climber to solo the Captain at 54. The Nose, the Trip, and Zodiac also got solo ascents.

Then unexpectedly, Hondo and Uli put on a show going at the speed record on the Nose. Later Hondo crushed the Nose/Dome linkup and in the process the individual solo records for each of the routes.

Leo Houlding came in and put his long standing project, the Prophet, to the test. The Koreans sent a slew of climbers at the Captain and all were successful, including really cool ascents of Lunar Eclipse, Lost in America, and New Dawn, without sticks I might add!

A woman’s team sent Freerider. Another woman’s team climbed Aurora. Another woman’s team sent Lurking Fear in 13 hours! Women solo’s included two of the Trip.

The Shield saw several ascents. We were treated to an ascent of Sunkist. Golden Gate saw two sends. The Muir had a couple of ascents as did some of the more obscure routes out west.  Genesis was sent by a mixed team of two of our best wall climbers.  Mixed teams sent a wide variety of routes.   Dihedral Wall saw an ascent too.  The "Old Men" German team did ZM!!   Great stuff!

All in all it was an interesting season and it was my privilege to be a part of the climbing by taking photos that will be treasured memories for a life time. Thanks to all the people who have sent donations to the site, all are appreciated.

Today’s ElCap Report…one last time… written just for you…unique in all the world!

The Prophet: I did see Leo climb a bit of the route in the late afternoon but I couldn’t stay as the mozzies were sucking me dry. He was not able to send the A-1 beauty pitch and thus didn't get the climb done.  He will be back in the Fall to work it some more.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Team Leo getting ready for the send.

 

Zodiac: The "Team that wouldn’t Bail" didn’t fix above Peanut ledge last evening and as a result got off late in the afternoon today. They can be proud of their determination and tenacity in continuing when things were not looking so positive for them. Mental toughness goes a long way toward success, on the Captain, and in life in general.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorting bags on Peanut Ledge this morning.

 

Lower down Lance and Steve climbed into the White Circle this morning and were on the Nipple pitch when I departed. They are moving nicely and should be off tomorrow. Two bivy ascent for the lads, most likely.  Best Dressed Team of the Day!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve cleaning in the White Circle this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lance leading the Nipple Pitch.

 

Lower down yet, Andy Kirkpatrick hauled some kit to the base in preparation for a solo of the route.

 

 

Nose: The Geezers put on a clinic, right up until they bailed from the Grey Bands this afternoon. It looked warm up there and they were caught behind the three man junk show up higher on the route. They came off in good order.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eric Perlman was low and slow on the King Swing, but stuck it anyway!

 

 

Higher up. The wily EC Vet lead and hauled huge loads all day for his three man team. It was necessary but brutal work!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baggage handlers at the end of the Jardine Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wily Leader, Steve Schneider, on Pancake Flake, late in the day.

 

The Muir: This team is moving along comfortably. They climbed the pitch to the slab and then the nutting pitch as I left. This is a really great route up high and needs to get more attention than it does.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leading the slab on the lower, upper Muir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Nutting pitch on the Muir.

 

Freerider: I did see Nick Berry and partner Cody effortlessly climb from Hollow Flake to the Spire this morning. They are on a run at the Salathe with the Monster variation. I have seen them several times working the moves on the Headwall and I suppose they are ready for the send.

Dihedral: I went out west just to shoot this team and found that they had vanished from the route. Too bad.

In other news: The Bridge was quiet today as Jerry and I tried to get some mileage out of so few teams to shoot. The action was limited and so was the shooting.

As I close out this seasons Reports, I hope you will take the time to send whatever donation you can, if you have read and enjoyed the Reports this season. It is an expensive proposition to stay here for so many weeks and any donations will be greatly appreciated.

I will stay on a few days to shoot some of the climbers and take some time off to just enjoy the Valley before I depart. Hopefully, I will be able to return in the Fall, when the Valley is quiet and the climbers are back to enjoy the best time of the year to climb. Have a good summer!

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 26th day of June, 2010.

I’m out of here…. Back into the World, Dude!!

Tom Evans

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks a bunch Tom. Where can

Thanks a bunch Tom. Where can I find you before you leave? I'll check by your site or at the Lodge in the morning.

Jesse M

Great report and Great

Great report and Great Shots,C U in the fall.
DP

Tom, Thank you so much for

Tom,

Thank you so much for your efforts.

Jeff

Michael and Susan! Email me!

Michael and Susan! Email me! Mark AT Hoodrivercoffeeco.com.

Thanks, Tom, see ya in the

Thanks, Tom, see ya in the fall.

BTW, IMHO, your photo this season have gotten a little more artful. Really nice work.

Mark Hudon

Tom, Many thanks for your

Tom,
Many thanks for your wonderful efforts. They really help keep the spirit alive. I hope that this fall I will see you when I intend to have a go at my own adventure. Have a wonderful summer!

All the Best,
Michael and Susan

Hi~~~~~Tom I am kyounghan

Hi~~~~~Tom

I am kyounghan ......now...I'm in korea.
I had really good time with my friends at the Elcap
and then also with you on the bridge.
When you visited our site in camp4
we were so....so.... happy.
I didn't forget what you said at the bridge
before I started climbing
you said ....."have fun !!!"
so....I did that enogh
thanks for your friendly advice.
I think that we were all happy exteme riders on the wall
......of course with you.
I spent a part of my life at the Elcap this year and last year.
Someday I'll be there again and I'll get joyful time with you
thanks for your everything....

Hey Tom, A big thanks to you

Hey Tom,

A big thanks to you for another season of stellar reporting. You are at times funny, serious, caring, outrageous and always knowledgeable. All us climbers owe a ton to you for entertaining us, not taking yourself (or anyone on the big stone) too seriously and taking some amazing pics to both give to visiting climbers and share in the reports. If any of our group is in trouble we know you've got our back, and if we're doing okay up there you'll probably make fun of us, and that's the way it should be! I hope you have a great summer relaxing in Crestline or wherever you plan to be. I won't make it down this coming fall, but will certainly be glued to the reports. Please come back for another season in the fall.

Cheers and many thanks,

Doug Pratt-Johnson

Hi..Uncle Tom.... Thanks for

Hi..Uncle Tom....

Thanks for your efforts and excellent reports..

I was happy with you whole through this season..

I got the route map and hung my office with it..

I'm ready to enjoy indoor climbing for fall season with you...

Also I'll try to send more climbing team to the greatest wall next year..

The bridge is like Mecca,you are the symbol of Mecca....

I hope to see you next year with Cobrasssssss and ambrosial Cigarsssss...

Thanks a million...

I.C.Kang who called Yosemite bear

Excellent coverage of the

Excellent coverage of the season. Thanks for the great pictures and narrative,

Javier

Hi Tom, thanks for the

Hi Tom, thanks for the lessons on El Cap, sheer terror!! How is Leo doing? Shaun and Tristan....
 
 
REPLY:  Leo was over on the Prow on the column last time I heard.  Tom

Thanks Tom! Look forward to

Thanks Tom!

Look forward to seeing you in the fall. I have the plane tickets booked and I will be there August 17th. Enjoy the valley and the rest of your summer!

Matt Thomsen

Thanks for a fantastic season

Thanks for a fantastic season Tom. I enjoyed every word of every report.

Thanks for everything Tom.

Thanks for everything Tom. My friend Jon topped out this afternoon and will be down tomorrow when they're rested. Maybe he'll run into you if you're still around. If not, see you around. Phil-redlands

Tom, thanks for all that you

Tom, thanks for all that you do. I always look forward to the reports and enjoy the time at the bridge too.

See you in Sept.

Russ

Oh say it ain't so! Great

Oh say it ain't so! Great report and shots as usual Tom! Thanks for all you do:)
Will look forward to seeing you in the fall!

The Princess of the El Cap Bridge

Thanks Tom! Cya in the

Thanks Tom!
Cya in the Fall!
lambone

Lower Upper? Mozzies? WTF? I

Lower Upper? Mozzies? WTF?
I think you may have entered another Land, Peeping Tom......Just guessin'.
Fine report.
Skully

thanks for you Tom! Adam

thanks for you Tom!

Adam