ElCap Report 6/23/10

ElCap Report 6/23/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Summer is near and so is the heat, but not yet! The weather continues to be excellent for wall climbing and some of the Monkey’s are taking advantage of it…. why aren’t you?! I left a little early today and went to the parking lot by the Sentinel Bridge…you know, the one Tourons love to shoot the Dome from, in the evening. I dragged a chair from the van, put my feet up on the rail fence and relaxed in the cool breeze at the edge of Cook’s Meadow. I puffed one of my cheap cigars and swilled my last Cobra, as Yosemite Falls commanded the view. A random woman wandered by and asked if she could take my picture. I must have looked pretty content sitting there. I stayed a couple of hours, letting my mind wander back over the time I have spent here in the Valley. I remembered the early days of wall climbing and savored the melancholy that such memories bring to an old mans heart. My old partners are long gone from the climbing scene now, and I wonder where they are and if they feel the same about “our days” so long ago. It was nice to have some time again to sit and reflect. As the long shadows cut across the Falls Wall, I arose and soon joined the line of vehicles headed to the Lodge.

Today’s report is brought to you by Memories. They keep us focused. They steer the ship. They bring us back to our favorite places.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The “Team that should have Bailed,” didn’t!  They are now "The Team that wouldn't Bail!"  John and Lynn, moved up the Black Tower this morning and went right into the White Circle by the time I departed. They are moving a bit better now, having learned some hard lessons, lower down. I think these boys are going all the way up!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The “Team that should have Bailed,” heading to the White circle.

 

Mescalito: Luke and Jason have moved onto the Bow now, and are most likely going to make a run for the top this evening, as the daylight is long and they are a short way from the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luke, lost amidst the big features of the Dawn Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luke and Jason hauling to the pitch below the Bow.

 

Nose: The Nose was jammed, low down, all day. A team of what appeared to be three Korean climbers broke from the pack and were soon headed across the Jardine. They appeared to be a NIAD team but looked a little short on speed.

Below them a team of two climbers, supposedly doing a two day ascent, made Dolt early in the afternoon and will probably stay on ECT tonight if they go that way. Another team was there just ahead of them and two more were behind, languishing in the Legs with bags and entanglements.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stylin in the Legs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Moving up the Stove Legs early in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NIAD hopefuls, arriving at Dolt Tower, late in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Does anyone free climb the Jardine Traverse? I don’t think so!!

 

Sunkist: The lads are off by now I think. I got a peek at them early this morning, very close to the top. Now that climb was fun to shoot!!

Salathe/Freerider: I did see the girls a couple above the Spire doing a pose down for the cameras that came in from the top last evening. I can’t tell if they are sending but wish them the best.

Higher up I saw a group of guys below the Roof. Nate Beckwith is working the Freerider Traverse and last few pitches from the top and Nick Berry and partner Cody, are working the Salathe Headwall from the top too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nate, Nick, and Cody about to get going on their projects.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cody, juggin out, a long way from the Headwall!

 

The YOSAR chopper guys worked long and hard today, practicing so they can fetch your ass off the wall, if things go south!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flyin Rangers talk it over. Ranger Jack Hoeflick facing the camera.  Ranger Keith Lober on the right

 

Mystery pitch and climber of the Day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news: Hondo hung out today for a time and said he was feeling fine with a little tightness in his legs after the big send yesterday. I guess soooo!! I had breakfast with Andy Kirkpatrick who is here to do some solo speed wall climbing on the Captain. Leo Houlding and Pickles are going to do a ground up on Leo’s long standing project starting tomorrow. They will be a welcomed addition to the SE Face, as the Zodiac crew is the only other team east of the Nose now. Replacements… Replacements, to the front, immediately!!  Thanks to Susan for bringing treats to the Bridge today and KFC for the Pizza!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Boys at the Bridge.  Stanley, Hondo, Paul, Alastair, and Leo.

So that’s the way it is on ElCap, for this the 23rd day of June, 2010.

So long… Ansel Evans

If I saw you sitting there

If I saw you sitting there swilling your last cobra and puffing on a cheap cigar, hell, I would take your picture. Actually doing that right now sounds great, but alas, I am currently in the east coast in VA, and the humidity blows, not to mention the fact that there isn't a cliff taller then 300 feet for miles...
be back in a week, but to the high country.

All the best to the bridge and its denizens.
Pierce

Climbing in front of Tom's

Climbing in front of Tom's lens is possible. All you have to do Mick is walk up to Tom let him know what you're planning to climb, wear bright clothing, and adding a couple of cold cobras never hurt either. You will get incredible photos that do focus those memories for a lifetime.

Hey Tom,

Love the reflection to the melancholy memories. I'm sure past partners remember the the big days on the big stone just same way you do. I know I carry with me all the big memories I have from the mountains. I saw an old friend in South Africa in February who I hadn't seen in 21 years. We climbed in the french alps in '81 and climbed the nose in '83. He is kind of ill right now, but we both remember the early 80's like it was yesterday. Thanks for the great writing and photos.

Cheers,

Doug

Tom: Although I have not yet

Tom:

Although I have not yet had the opportunity to climb in front of your lens (it is a dream of mine) , you are creating once in a lifetime images for those climbers. Just think, in many years to come they will sit quietly one afternoon in the Vally and think back to their trip up the big stone,. Your incredible photos will be with them always for them to sharpen the focus of those memories. Don't ever stop chasing your passion.

Mick

Mystery pitch... "the Pecking

Mystery pitch... "the Pecking Order" on Tempest... no ideas about the climber :-) Val
 
 
Reply:  Nice Val!   Yeah, you have to be in a pretty small group to know the climber.  Tom

Nice shot of the backside of

Nice shot of the backside of my man Tom...

HB

hi Tom, keep shooting The

hi Tom, keep shooting The Team that Wouldnt Bail. That's my boy Jon up there! thanks phil
 
 
REPLY:  Yeah I am kind of proud of those guys myself... it is easy to bail when things get kind of difficult and slow ...but takes some real tenacity to keep going.  Many an elcap ascent has hinged on tenacity and not so much the technical skill of the climbers... Good for them!!    Tom

nice writing tom...glad you

nice writing tom...glad you enjoyed some 'time off'.

your site provides an invaluable vehicle to share some great memories...

see ya next time!
bob

Here's to memories! Thanks

Here's to memories!

Thanks for another great report Tom!

The Princess :)

Always a winner Tom Russ

Always a winner Tom

Russ

Isn't it high time you wrote

Isn't it high time you wrote an El Cap book Tom? Your pics, humor and musings are priceless. I could thumb through it in the winter months. What say you?
 
REPLY:  A book would have maybe 65 shots in it.... the ElCap Report has hundreds of shots and stories... My Book is the ElCap Report!!  Thanks for asking!  Tom

DAMN !!!

DAMN !!!

hey !! not much to say , just

hey !!

not much to say , just wanted to get first comment

good job luke and jason

- ian jewell

"My partners are long gone

"My partners are long gone from the climbing scene now..."

Not all of them, pardner.

Salud,

Mike (and Gabe and Dave)