ElCap Report 6/21 to 6/25/2014 Last Report for the Spring Season

ElCap Report 6/21 to 6/25/2014  Late season Report, last of this spring.

By Tom Evans

Yo... I am home now but wanted to post this last report.  It covers the last few days of the season when the internet was not available to me.  There was some nice action on the NA Wall, Salathe, Zodiac, Muir and the Nose.  Many thanks to those of you who have sent a donation to the site... greatly appreciated!


Today's ElCap Report...written just for you...unique in all the world!

1)  The British team of Duncan (white helmet) and Hugo (green helmet) made practice runs as high as Dolt a couple of times.  They went for the NIAD on the 21st and completed their climb in 18 or so hours, as I recall.  Here is Duncan climbing to Eagle Ledge.  Love the pants!




























2)  Hugo leading in the Grey Bands.























3)  Duncan on the Great Roof.  Nice cloudy day for them and me too, as photos on cloudy days are not so harsh and the details are easily seen.




























4)  The father-son team of Scott and Keenan Waeschle, were accompanied by Piton Pete, on Zodiac.  Pete's desire for lazy starts was honored throughout the climb!  Here we see Pete leading the long center pitch of the White Circle.























5)  Keenan leading the Nipple while Pete tends the belay.  Scott is coming up out of view below.




























6)  The next day Keenan lead the Mark of Zorro pitch first thing..... in the late morning!  OMG!  The kit, the kit, was well organized!




























7)  Scott and Pete figuring out how to move the kit, as the morning light came on.




























8)  This is a shot of the last team on Zodiac, just before I departed.  These two were fast and made a very efficient ascent, finishing the last day I shot.  Here the leader is getting the first light while in the Circle.



























9)  Over on the NA Wall, Greg Loniewski and El Portal local, Eamon, also made an efficient ascent of their route.  Here Greg is leading out from Big Sur onto the pendulum pitches leading to the Black Dihedral, as the light came on.





























10)  Back on Big Sur, Eamon tended the belay.





























11)  Greg had some trouble with the final pendulum.  It is particularly difficult because the length of the rope out is almost as much as the arc of the swing and thus requires a lot of velocity to complete.  Greg tried and tried and could get hands on holds but by then the rope was working against him.




























12)  As he hung from the hand holds it looked like he just might get it done... but time and time again he was flying off, as shown here.




























13)  After a while he used a different approach and hooked across the last part and was soon solidly on the ledge.




























14)  Next day found the team high above, traversing across the top of the Cyclopes Eye... they finished the route that evening.




























15)  Jim Herson and his young son Connor walked by the Bridge for a little "cragging" ... a couple hours later I spotted them in the Stove legs.




























16)  Connor killed it with style and grace... I would have been dying on that stuff!





























17)  Young and strong... ah... highly over rated!!  The kid, like his sister, is going to be a good adult climber too.





























18)  A team of three, from Mexico City, climbed the Salathe over a few days while I was finishing shooting.  Here they are on the Headwall.




























19)  I did spot a team of two on the free Muir.  They were strong climbers and did well.  Here they are hauling on the traverse across to the Stemming pitch.



























20)  Here they are about to start the Stemming pitch as the light moves off.





























21)  Big features near the right side of the Nose.  Do you see the horse head?
























In other news:  Jim Reynolds made it down from his solo of Cosmos, one of the best climbs of the season.  I saw him hanging with Dave Allfrey who did make the Triple with, off the couch, Cheyne Lempe in 23 hours and some change.  Nice work guys!!

Ok I guess that is it for the season... if you have requested that I drop box your shots to you, then you can expect them in the next few days.  Send me those reminders!  As you have previously read, I have been having real problems getting decent internet here and would like to send a shout out to anyone living in the Valley, who has access to fast internet service.  I need a place to do the report, in the evening, for about an hour.  I will pay your monthly internet service for any month that I use it.  Let me know so that the ElCap Report can continue!  Also many thanks go out to you readers who have followed the report for so long and have been supportive of my efforts... Greatly appreciated!!!

So that's the way it is, for this last day of the ElCap Report for the Spring of 2014.

See you again in the Fall!

Capt Tom.... signing off for now.


Thanks for another season of reports.

Hi Tom,

Loved the horses head in that shot. You always find new things lurking on the cliff. Good job Jim Reynolds for scrapping it out on Cosmos during the heat. See you in the fall.


fast internet

Tom...bummed I couldn't make it out this spring to see ya. Ill be down baking for a day on LF in mid july for a solo IAD but will miss you. See you in the fall for sure.

As far as internet I have some family/friends that live in the park, in fact very close to the village store in a rad little house. It has a nice backyard and good internet plus they are super friendly.

Ill start putting in some effort to secure you an afternoon/evening internet setup. talk to ya soon. Justin Cory - "Love Dad" team


That would be super duper... hope it can be done!  Thanks, Tom

Thanks for another awesome season!

It was nice seeing you briefly in the cafeteria. We had fun on my friend's fist "big" wall (Washington Column). You weren't kidding about it being windy, though!

greg's partner's name is eamon

the el portal local is eamon not to be confused with ammon. eamon is the son of rosemary, brother of sarah, former trail crew guy who brings a lot of music and soul to the lower canyon...great job on his first el cap route!