ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/20/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The action on the Cap continues to decline, in spite of encouraging weather. The Big Trades are nearly empty, and await fresh teams.

CORRECTION: The solo woman I have been calling “Trish” on the Trip recently, was actually Chris Chan! You may recall that Chris caused quite a stir by soloing the Shield, last Fall. I knew this woman climbed too well to be a first timer! So congrats to Chris, and my sincerest apologizes for the mix up.

Today’s ElCap Report is brought to you by Chris, the mystery woman, for a week, on ElCap!

Today’s Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: There was a new crop of fresh fodder for the grist mill on this very popular route. Two teams climbed the first pitch and variation this afternoon. Are they the real deal or just practicing Pukes? We will know soon enough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

What NOT to wear on dueling teams, on the first’s of Zodiac.

　

Higher up the Korean team from Team Extreme Riders climbed the Black Tower this morning and then into the Circle in early afternoon. I assume they went to the start of the Nipple later in the day. Doing better men!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Korean climber on the Black Tower pitch this morning.

　

Mescalito: Luke and Jason are moving right along on this great route. They climbed to and lead the Molar Traverse as I departed this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Jason showing us what NOT to wear climbing to the Molar Traverse on Mescalito.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

 

Luke shows us what TO wear while doing the Molar Traverse.  Jason is IN style now!

　

Nose: Two wall style teams are all that occupy this mega-classic route. Both are moving along with determination but not speed. One went to and did the King Swing, while the other did the Jardine. A woman lead the King Swing pretty well this morning. However they lost a lot of time with logistics on the pitch and as a result will have to get on it to get to Camp 4 or above today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

What NOT to wear when leading the Jardine Traverse.

　

Sunkist: Ted and Brian are moving close to the good stuff on this seldom done, but fine line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

What TO wear in the morning, below the Sunkist Headwall.

　

Golden Gate: The German climber of some note, Tobias and his partner, Zach, are working on this route, after some slippery skating getting on it yesterday. Mason and Brad were at the Bridge watching this team for a while and said they are climbing well and nailed the crux. This is a “team free” style ascent, which means they share the leading.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

What NOT to wear when leading on Golden Gate!  Belayer however, is way IN style!

　

Salathe: I did see the 3 man Korean team go over the headwall this morning and make Long Ledge later in the afternoon. They have been motoring along at their own pace and should be off soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

First light on the Salathe Headwall.

　

Freerider: Nate and Josh are around the corner, out of my view, after rappin in to the top pitches to work them today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Nate jugging out, taking a break to look over at the Salathe Headwall.

 

Out West: I looked for EE and Mike from the bridge today with out any success. They are probably around the corner and out of view.

In other news: Another very quiet day here at the bridge. Beautiful here without so many people around. We didn’t have a lot to see today but the quality of what we did see was high. Chris Chan came by this morning and we chatted a while about her climb and my blunder in IDing her. Sorry about that!

I hear that a team is grinding along on the lower 10 of the Muir at the moment.   Also, a woman's team is going on Freerider tomorrow, looking to make a free ascent over several days.  Good climbing girls!

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 20^th day of June, 2010.

Later, Tom