ElCap Report 6/20/09

ElCap Report 6/20/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… yes it is true… I am back at the throttle on the ElCap Bridge, so tie in tight, check your knots, and get psyched up for the latest news, from the most important rock on the planet.  I drove all night to get here early this morning so I could have a full day at the “office”.  The Trades are pretty full and a few climbers are venturing onto, soon to be, Trade Routes.   High clouds and moderate temperatures set the stage for a great day of climbing on the Captain.

Today’s report is brought to you by my 98 Pontiac Firebird,  I drove up in this morning.  It ran great all the way, with the Flowmaster exhaust system growling the other cars on the freeway into submission.  My good friend Nanook has taken an interest in the unit and has it out for a test drive as I type these lines.  I can’t find a pic to show you but will keep looking.
Today’s ElCap Report hot off the press…

Zodiac:  There was a team that topped out as I arrived which I hear held up the lower parties for a time.  Lower down there were two team that seemed joined at the belay and the lower of the two seemed to take a fixed line from above on the pitches I watched.  I admit that I haven’t the slightest idea what they are up to as I have been removed for four days.  Anyway, they were hauling to Peanut ledge the last I saw of them. 
1)  Part of the four man, two man team, juggin the line far out from the Nipple.


























Lower down yet a two man team climbed the BT pitch and were headed into the White Circle as I departed.

Lost In America:  Charlie Sebastian and his buddy, Loring, were seen jugging up the fixed first two pitches this morning and by afternoon had put two more into the books.  Watch out Charlie, lightning does strike twice!!
2)  Loring leading late in the afternoon as Charlie takes a break on Lost in America.


























Virginia to the Trip:  The so called, “Chips”, and a friend are doing a push on this recently popular route.  They were at the intersection of the two routes this afternoon late and have a long, long night ahead… might be a good idea to turn it into a “shove”, which is a push but with a rest period in the wee hours of the night.  It looked like they were having a good time.
3)  “Damn it I dropped my watch into the crack!”

























NA Wall:  Caught sight of these guys around Calaveras  ledge this morning and they made their way higher on the route.  I had a brain freeze and forgot about them in the late afternoon so I can’t tell you where they ended up… Big Sur most likely.

Mescalito:  There is a solo who’s name I might have known this morning, but my short term memory is a thing of the past, probably from unfortunate “experiments” in my younger days.  He climbed the so called “crux” pitch this morning and may be headed to the Bismarck if he kicks it up a bit late in the day.
4)  Solo on Mescalito, getting it done in good style.

























Nose:  I wish I could make some sense of what is going on, on this super classic Trade Route.  The Great Roof area was quite congested with what appeared to be a Korean team of four.  It looked like a NIAD team passed them there.  The two Scott's from Colorado threw down an 11 hour NIAD I later learned. 
5)  Climbing the Great Roof before the sun got there.



























Higher up I did see a team disappear into the Glowering spot as I arrived this morning.  Lower down a team bailed from Dolt and two other teams went up to ECT and on to the KS with the second team taking a rope from the end of the KS directly to Texas Flake… looked pretty weird!  The wandered into the Grey Bands as I left… I don’t have a clue what is going on with these folks.

Shield:  I team of two, very cold looking lads, climbed over the roof pitch and headed to the start of the Groove pitch as I departed.. They looked really cold up there!!
6)  Climbing to the start of the Groove pitch late in the day on the Shield.



























Salathe:  I saw a large gaggle of climbers around the headwall and long ledge this morning… impossible to tell who belonged to whom up there.
7)  The last in line had a lonely perch while everyone else moved up.

























Lower down a team climbed the Hollow flake and were last seen around the vicinity of the Ear late in the afternoon.

Blast from the Past:
8)  A youthful Tom Cecil, Mr. Seneca Rx these days, takes a long look at the Shield headwall from the pitch above Mammoth terrace in 1983.  It didn’t look so good and we eventually bailed!

























9)  In other news:  The big event of the day was not climbing related but the wedding of Nicki and Allisyn at the Cathedral beach this morning.  There was quite a turnout and a good time was had by all.  I warned my Posse members that these events are highly contagious and to be very careful around women who have been stimulated by such activities. 


























The weather is back to good and the climbers are taking up the challenge, so get out here before the scorching heat comes on to melt those foolish enough to think they are immune to the stuff.  It is good to be back after taking care of some business at home for a few days.  Several people have informed me that I have been far too nice, in general, in the Report this season.  What can I say?  I’m just a nice guy!  But don’t push me Pukes, I can be pretty harsh!
So that’s the way it is for this the 20th day of June 2009.
Later Tom


Great Roof Shot

Actually not a Korean party of four on the Nose...nondescript party of three with Korean party below. We were passed by the Scotts (they were both named Scott, I mean) shortly after Camp IV.

Nice shots time

Another round of great shots.

Love the Roof shot, and the bands in the Lost in America shot.

Great to have you back Tom!

Love that shot of Tom Cecil. That's the only shot I've seen of him other than that one on the Molar that got me sooo motivated! Hope life is good and the beer is cold.



youre back!

thanks for your OUTSTANDING words and pics, See you in the fall at the bridge!


Yaaa, The wrinkles!
Should've ironed 'em.

Hope those lads are having a

Hope those lads are having a grand old time on the 'shove' of Virginia. Did they start Friday night or Saturday morning?

Short Term Memory

Tom, you ARE right, that memory of yours is certainly getting holes in it. What Pontiac Firebird????? We have always known you to be driving your old standby, the chartreuse Chevy Vega.

Peter Haan

Groove, Mon

Yarrr, great pics, Matey.


Great shot of the Great Rook. What a beautiful piece or rock that is!