ElCap Report 6/19/13

ElCap Report 6/19/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Another gorgeous, Fall like day, here in Yosemite.  Not a trace of smoke until around 2pm when the west wind brought some in, from the Mariposa fire.  There was quite a bit of climbing going on today, so I am going to get right to the details.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Gunkie, Beau States, looked good climbing the long center pitch of the Circle today.  I suspect he is doing the Nipple as I write the Report.

1)  Beau moving out of the main corner, to the better crack on the right.  Nice lighting too!


























2)  Lower down, Steve Bate climbed the 3rd and 4th pitches while I was there.  He might do the bolt ladder pitch later, as the days are long and need to be put to good use.  Here he is on the 4th.

























Tangerine Trip:  The Team Extreme Riders crew, of three, are on the route for good now.  They climbed the 3rd, 4th, and 5th pitches today.

3)  The leader, Hyung Han Ko, tried a shortcut by attempting a pendulum, on the down aiding part of the 4th pitch.  Looked cool.....didn’t work!

























4)  The baggage claim area on level 3!!  Other members of the team are Yeol Soo Sung, and the woman climber, Eum A Kim.  Best of luck to them all.

























SSPO:  Doug climbed onto the Pacific Ocean route this morning and was on the Bering Straits later in the day.

5)  Doug climbing up to the leftward traverse to the Straits this morning.



























6)  I spotted Big Andy and John-O, at 10am, climbing the last pitch, of their 3D push. They had been out there for a long time!

























7)  Later in the day, the Stick Man Team climbed off the route.  I had high hopes of seeing that wonderful pole, brandished on the last pitch’s bolt ladder.  Alas… no such luck… rats!!  The pole was not to be seen anywhere… someone ratted us out guys!

























8)  A three person Argentinean team, Oliver, Ruiman, and Javier, started to push the route last night.  I picked them up on the Grey Bands Traverse, this morning.  They climbed well… right up until the leader took a plunge off the top of the Pancake Flake.  You know the spot!  Fortunately he stopped just short of the very dangerous triangular ledge, that awaits falling climbers.  He continued without further incident.  Here he is yarding up to his high point.

























9)  Hungarian, Thomas, and cutie, Shino Jomoto, were back on the route today, in search of the NIAD.  They did a 30hr climb just two days ago!  They climbed well all day and are in a good position to get the sub 24hour time.  Here Shino makes the grab on a great toss by Thomas.  She quickly yarded over to him.


























Solo, Mike Flood, hung out on Dolt Tower all day and didn’t climb while I was there.  Usually that precedes a bail, but he was still there when I departed.

Lower down, a Korean team of three, spent the night in the Legs and dragged to Dolt by early afternoon.  Maybe just a Dolt run?  They immediately bailed.  Soooooo....

Congratulations guys!!  You have won the coveted …

10)  BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!!!


























I did see a team of two on the early Muir part of the 3D when I shot out west this afternoon.

Salathe:  The “invisible party” climbed over the Roof and onto the headwall this afternoon.  I took some shots but couldn’t find them, just their haul bags, ropes, aid slings, shit bag and such… they must have been there too, as something was moving around!  Oh well….

Far below, I spotted Will and Thomas, grinding their kit into dust, hauling the Freeblast.. they’re gonna love it!


In other news:  Very quiet, for a time, at the Bridge today … until about noon, when busloads of Tourons suddenly materialized from the cosmic void.  I ran for the van… leaving the reluctant, Sloan, to deal with the inquiring mob.  I headed west immediately.  You guessed it… my day off!  Back on tomorrow, as Erik and a friend are going on the Nose. 

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 19th day of June, 2013. 

Later, Capt. Tom






Where's that Canook fixing up the far-south-east?
Have you seen any blue bugs? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks Tom!

Favorite Lines and a Question

My favorites today:

"until about noon, when busloads of Tourons suddenly materialized from the cosmic void. I ran for the van… leaving the reluctant, Sloan, to deal with the inquiring mob. I headed west immediately."

"The baggage claim area on level 3!!"

Tom, is Shino the same SF climber who writes incredible trip reports?


Beau States

Great job, keep it up!

5/27 - 5/31

OK I give up! What are NFG'sTom. That's part of the description you gave to my son and his partners
. For the life of me I can't decipher your terminology. HELP!!
NFG is a term we used in the Army during the time of the Vietnam war.  New fuc++++ Guy.   Tom


cant wait to hear how they make out.. they were great.. we met them after out 36 hour nose push this weekend, and they helped us drag stuff down the EL.. then we hung out at the pizza deck with them... woot for them... and hopefully they send!

Argentinian Team


The three man Argentines are Oliver, Ruiman and Javier.

Thanks for the report!

Argentine Team - Canary Island Team

Ruyman and Oliver are from Canary Island, but we are glad to know that they are into the Argentine Team...
Well done...
Enhora buena chicos, lo han conseguido...
Ruyman I love you


Excellent, Tom! Thanks! Mark

Excellent, Tom! Thanks!