ElCap Report 6/17/14

Yo... Another day of climbing, in great weather, closed out.  Cool enough to be a late Sept. day with a strong breeze coming from the west.  We still need some new climbers to get up on the Cap.  The action continues on the Nose, Zodiac, Aurora, Cosmos and the Salathe.  Speaking of Cosmos... Jim Reynolds is still out there knocking off the pitches.  Unfortunately by the time I get out west to shoot him the heat is on and photography is difficult because of the shimmering air currents sweeping up the face... and he sometimes just hides out in the afternoon hear.  But the main thing is that he is doing well and getting the job done. 

Today's ElCap Report...written just for you ... unique in all the world!

1)  The TER team of Korean climbers is making good progress up this route...in part because they are up and moving a couple hours after sunrise... unlike the boys to the east of them who like their lazy morning routine!  Here the Korean leader has made the belay at the start of the right side of the Golden Finger of Fate... nice morning light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Another Korean team, not affiliated with TER, are on Zodiac now.  They are having problems getting out of first gear and may be gone by tomorrow if things don't change.  Here they are leading the 3rd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  This team was about the only one on the Nose that looked like they knew the deal.  They are a NIAD team passing the Jardine Traverse in the morning they were last seen at Camp 4 around 2:30 this afternoon.  The Jardine is supposed to be a "free" climb.. albeit on "chipped holds".  No one ever does it that way, as the bolts that protect the smooth face are a bit too close together and allow various rope tactics to get past the climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  I spotted this team dragging up the Stove Legs yesterday afternoon.  This morning I arrived to find them bivying in the Legs, a pitch below Dolt Tower... not a good sign for the men.  When I left at 2:30pm they were leading the pitch above Dolt ... so... unless something changes they may be downward bound soon... come on guys... pick it up!!  They are the father and son team of Scott and Matt Phillips and we would really like to see them get it done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  The rest of the climbing shots are of Stevie G's crew on Zodiac.  There are about 7 or so of them and they got the treatment today in the White Circle.  Lots of free hanging jugging and crowded belays.  This shot is one of the entire White Circle with DGriff at the start of the Nipple pitch which he lead later, and a couple of people at the start of the Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Leaving the belay at the start of the circle entails a very airy jug up the center of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Afternoon found the men jammed into the belay at the start of the Nipple.  Fortunately Dave departed on the lead before the crunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Trent, finishing the free hanging jug up to the top of the White Circle, below the Mark of Zorro.  Dave waits at the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Another team member got the "pleasure" of being lowered out from the belay and doing the long free hanging jug to the belay.  Don't believe them if they say it wasn't scary!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  "Where the hell did everyone go?"  The last man, left alone, at the start of the Circle, was wondering when he would get to rejoin the crew!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Stevie G got to clean the Nipple... here he is giving it a little love!  The wind was blowing at a pretty good clip later in the day and that prompted Stevie to put on a blue wind breaker... Yeah!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  The beach, at Antigua, we visited on our winter Eastern Caribbean Cruise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  I talked to Dave Allfrey this afternoon and he told me that he and Cheyne Lempe are soon to do the "Triple".  The Triple is to climb Mt. Watkins, Half Dome, and the Nose of ElCap, all in one day!  The logistics add to the difficulties.  Thanks for the birthday wishes too!

So that's the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 17th day of June, 2014

Later, "Ansel" Evans

 

 

Happy Birthday Tom!

Cheers,
Doug

Happy Birthday Tom

heyho! all the best for your big day and lots of love from switzerland. thanks a ton for your great and entertaining reports, we hope you're keeping on for many happy years to come.

btw, the jardine traverse is climbed free every now and then. at least the "two swiss chicks" in sept. 09 did it that way :)

cheers the swiss power puff girls from back then

 

You guys were great... I remember your cool outfits, easy to focus on bodies, and smooth moves.  Fun times for sure...   Tom

Thanks Tom!!

Happy Birthday by the way. Thanks for the awesome shots. Wish I could come down and get another one done.
Go Cheyne and Dave!

Crystal Clear!!!

Looks like the best conditions in the Valley. Jealous of anyone in the alley today...

Thanks Tom

Jingy

Yeah!!

Love it!!!!