ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/16/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Man oh man was it a sweet day up on the Captain! The weather has moderated somewhat and it is a bit on the cool side up high. The various teams have reached some interesting looking rock so you are in for a real visual treat on today’s Report! I actually had 30 shots I call “best of the day” in my file for today and had to pick the best 12, which was not so easy!

Anyway it is very late and I need to get this done so….

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Lunar Eclipse: The four person team has moved past the high point of the team who backed off in the Fall, complaining of bad belay bolts. Hopefully this team is fixing things up as necessary. This team is looking good with excellent colors and awesome rock to climb over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Korean leader on some incredible looking rock!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Lower down the minions hauled the freight in some cool rock of their own!

　

Zodiac: Steven and Pierce climbed into the White Circle this morning and were finishing the Nipple when I left around 4pm. I would have posted a shot of them but the other stuff is just too good and you have seen tons of Zodiac stuff in the past. Good job guys!

Lower down Eric, from the recent New Dawn push, fixed to 4 today and came down.

Lost in America: The three man team of determined Koreans has passed the difficulties and are most likely off the route as I type these lines. I had my concerns about this team at the start but they have risen to the occasion and made a good ascent of this fairly popular, difficult route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Last morning start on LA.

　

Trip: Chris Chan was working on the 5^th pitch today after fixing it early last evening. She cleaned it going on gear with a very slack jug line, which is certainly not recommended. Then she got on that line and some gear zippered in front of her giving her an airy jug back to the rock! She was finished with the 6^th as I left. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Chris cleaning on the gear…. Not usually a good idea on a traverse, because of the amount of slack if something pulls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Chris, getting the bump and jug cleaning on the 5^th.

 

Higher up on the route the two guys climbed the slab pitch and were a couple higher when I left. Who are these guys?

Mescalito: The Montreal Posers have reached the top of their efforts.   In just three days they have climbed 4 pitches but mostly just sat around in their ledges. Another team, Luke you may remember his marriage proposal from last year, and Jason, real climbers, are fixing on the route now.  These Montreal posers are being very inconsiderate of other climbers who want to do the route.  If you are just going to sit a few pitches off the ground then go over to the closed area, as the first 4 are open on all those routes.  Bad form boys, bad form!!

 

New Dawn:  This Korean team of Team Extreme Riders is a well run climbing group and are due to top out in the morning.  Today they climbed the very photogenic upper part of the Dawn Wall.  Nice stuff guys!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Korean leader, KYoung Han in some of the Dawns nicest territory!

 

Nose: The route saw two fast NIADs today with Brad and Scott taking the lead and blazing up the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

Brad making the King Swing with his last gasp of grasp.

 

The other NIAD was Scott from Colorado and partner (who?) stayed several pitches below the lead NIADs.

Higher up a team of 4, who might be the German team, climbed past the Great Roof and went higher later in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Climber taking a break and looking at the nice early morning view from Pancake Flake, on the Nose.

　

Higher yet a two man Korean team, the one with the nice woman asking for only good shots, climbed off the route today as Brad and Scott Bennett passed them on the last pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

Last pitch on the Nose.

Lower down a couple of wall style teams dragged up the legs and by late afternoon had not yet made Dolt, but were going upward!

 

Shield: Scott Stowe and John Wells bivied past the Roof last night and got a late start today. They had just started the Groove as I departed. John was having some difficulty cleaning Scotts overdriven pins I

guess! It looked cold up there in a stiff wind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John cleaning on the barren Shield headwall, on a cold and blustery day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

　

Scott Stowe gives the Groove pitch a hard look before getting to the business.

　

Other routes in the area are being climbed but I have not had the angle to see the teams on MM and SK.

Salathe/Freerider: Josh and former wall star of the 90’s, Nate Beckwith, climbed to the Spire today via the full Monster variation which Nate lead without apparent difficulty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Nate, low on the Monster direct.

　

Lost World: Bob finally departed the gravitational sink of the Bridge and I got a few shots of him cleaning the 3 on this seldom done route. Another party set out for it today with one EE a member of the Team.

In other news: It was a rough day today as a bus after bus load of lobotomized Tourons invaded the Bridge. Plus Piton Pete was here and in rare form, which is always a test of patience. However, there were many climbers in evidence and a good time was had by those without Bridge responsibilities. I had a sensational day of shooting, when I had a moment to shoot that is.

My spies report that there is all kinds of junk raining down from the vicinity of the Nose.  DON'T THROW USED WATER BOTTLES OFF THE ROUTES...  DON'T THROW ANYTHING OFF THE ROUTES!!!

So that’s the way it is for this the 16^th of June, 2010.

Bed time…. Tom