ElCap Report 6/15/13

ElCap Report 6/15/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… The great weather continues to hold, as more and more climbers are taking the opportunity to get on ElCap.  With just a few weeks left of the Spring season this just might be your last chance to climb the Cap, in good conditions.  So grab your kit and make a dash for the car… tell the family you are going out for ice cream and that it may take a while before you come back!  It works every time!!  Just ask my two ex-wives! 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The Prince of the Upper East Side is getting empty real fast…. So don’t tell anyone and just sneak up to the base and get going.

1)  The Phillip's, father/son team, topped out late this afternoon.  I didn’t actually see them top out but got this shot around 2:30pm of them on the next to last pitch…so odds are they are off by now.

























2)  Lower down, the final TER team is spending tonight on Peanut Ledge, and will be off tomorrow, unless they push on, like team 2 did yesterday, arriving topside at 4am!  I shot them here in mid morning.  They were on Peanut as I departed.


























3)  Tangerine Trip:  A team of two, smartly dressed men, climbed to the top of the 2nd pitch

this afternoon and hauled some kit.

























4)  SSPO:  Ottawa Doug jugged a mile of fixed lines early this morning and climbed and hauled two pitches after that.  Here he is, leading the 5th, just as the sun departed around 2pm.

























5)  A nice updraft kept him cool, in the shade of the afternoon, on stunning rock!


























Nose:  The King had a lot of action today but it was never crowded.

6)  The four man Korean team, who stayed at Camp 4 last night, bailed from there today.  They looked to be lost and hacked their way down, utilizing wild pendulums.  There is a clear diagram of the retreat, but they missed it I guess, and went down Grape Race for a time and then to the Nose.  They may still be up there!  It is a difficult bail and they earned the ground!



























7)  A couple of teams came up the legs today, including this strong, three man team of, Jared, Justin and Scott.  Here they are hauling kit to Dolt Tower.  Cali boys!

























8)  This team, John and Dustin, with the pack, looked to be a NIAD but lollygagged about on the stances and it was late by the time they reached the Grey Bands, shown here.



























9)  This team, of Mike and Greg, came up from Dolt I believe, and also messed around a bit.  By mid afternoon they were on the King Swing.  Unfortunately, the swinger ran for miles and was a half hour into it when I gave up and left.  His were the classic problems… he wore guide shoes and not climbing shoes.  As a result, just when it looked like he was there, he skated back and had to go again and again.  His other problem is a common one… he didn’t want to actually run, so did the Jr. High Cheerleader shuffle, over and over.  He could still be there, for all I know.


























10)  This is what running looks like… you turn and face forward in the direction you are going.  Then run like hell!  With the JHC shuffle you face upward and slide sideways, never crossing your feet… not good!  Not good at all!  Capt. Tom, 1971.. photo Paul Sibley.
































11)  I spotted Hungarian Thomas, and friend Shino Jomoto, at Camp 5, when I arrived to shoot this morning.  Here they are, later in the afternoon, finishing the Changing Corners pitch.  They did a 30 hour ascent, climbing the first part at night.  They say they are going back for the NIAD!



























12)  Higher up, Doug and John, survivors of the Death Squad, topped out this afternoon.
























In other news:  I didn’t see anyone west of the Nose.  Pete and minions hoofed kit to the base of the Waterfall Route, late in the morning.  Mark Hudon left for “The Hood” (his home in Hood River, OR) this morning.  I hear that Mash Alexander has arrived, but I have not seen him.  The “Elderly” Team of Todd and Elaine topped out yesterday and I talked to them today.  They looked good!

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 15th day of June, 2013…my last day as a 68 year old!

Later, Capt. Tom





But Tom, you didn't do the

But Tom, you didn't do the King Swing in rock shoes, the evidence is right there in the photo...so busted. At least I never thought of RR's at rock shoes, they were always the cruel shoes to me.
From Tom.... Back then they WERE rock shoes and performed well.... wish they still made them!  Tom

I had a pair also, but I

I had a pair also, but I could never free climb in them very well, but they took away the pain of aiding in rock shoes. You're the best Tom, thank you for all the good will and service you do for the rock climbing community.

Happy Birthday

Reading the last line of this report, and factoring in the time difference (Paris)...
I guess it's Happy Birthday for some time now, and many thanks for this, and (also a guess, though an easy one) from many !



Tom, it is nice to see that you follow your own fashion advice. Thanks again for all the pixels.

Way to Spray!

I love how you're getting your own spray in on the report's lately.

See you again tomorrow.