ElCap Report 6/14/13

ElCap Report 6/14/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… One couldn’t ask for better weather than we are having right now.  Mornings have blue skies with beautiful clouds and afternoons seem to cloud over and get nicely cool.  There is climbing going on but mostly on just a few of the Big Trades.  So you are going to get a lethal dose of the Big Three. 

Also…listen up Noobs… the Nose has turned into a parking lot of late, because all you noobs want to do it, but haven’t figured out that it is NOT Easy!  Here are a few common mistakes I’ve observed lately. 

A)  Parties are taking WAY, WAY TOO LONG AT THE BELAYS.  I see teams spending 40 minutes to an hour at each change over!  Listen Pukes… you can’t do that and still climb the route.  A good rule of thumb is 5 minutes to get the leader out.  The cleaner should rack the gear in some kind of order while cleaning, so you don’t stand around racking gear at the belays.

B)  The Nose is a bad climb to learn to aid climb on.  It is too long for parties that are NEW to aid, or mixed aid and free.  If you want to learn to aid climb then go to Zodiac, the Trip, Lurking Fear.  Better yet… stay away from the Captain all together, and head over to the Column or the Tower until you have your shit together.  

C)  If you can’t lead 5.9 free, or mostly free, then you don’t belong on the Nose.  I see people, all the time, aiding every inch of the Stovelegs!!  You know what we call them??  BAILERS!

D)  When you are aiding… don’t stand in your lower rungs looking for the next placement.  Immediately move up as high as you can in your aiders and then look for the next gear.

Ok… try to work on that stuff… and stay the hell off the Nose until you have all that stuff dialed.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!


1)  The lead Korean team topped out this morning.  For climbers with little actual aid experience these guys did really well!

























The number two team is going off later today.

2)  The father and son team climbed right behind the #2 team and are going well.  They should be on Peanut or higher tonight.  Here Matthew is leading above the Devil’s Brow.
























3)   The Number three team, is lead by, Jung Min Yoo, an excellent female climber.  Here they are leading past the Devil’s Brow, later in the day.  They are a 4 person team and we all know what a problem all the logistics can be with such a team.  They are managing it well.

























4)  This shot shows Scott Phillips getting rowdy on the start to the pitch to Peanut.


























Nose:  One of the two big Korean teams bailed late yesterday and the other isn’t setting any speed records.  However, they are not presently holding any other parties up.  These guys need to read (A) above, as they waste huge blocks of time, standing around, doing heaven knows what.

5)  The party of three from yesterday, let the survivors of the Death Squad, Doug and John, pass at camp 5 this morning.  They then let the speedsters pass too.  Thanks guys!

























6)  Having already done the Nose and Salathe recently, Edwin and Asher made a run at a NIAD today.  They were cooking and were away from Camp 5 by late morning!  Here they are short fixing the Great Roof.  I talked to them later and they said they did a 10 hour send!

























7)  Later they cruised into Camp 5 doing a good job on that nasty entrance pitch, shown here.
























8)  Behind the speedy team was another NIAD team.  Kirk and Chandle, from Boulder, CO are calling themselves.. Team Ghea.. it is a Boulder thing and I don’t have any idea what it is about nor do I want to know!  Here Kirk is running hard on the King Swing.  They were less than 24 hours and got the send!

























9)  Higher they climbed across the Lynn Hill Traverse seen here in this shitty shot.

























Lower down I saw a couple of teams struggling in the Legs… it wasn’t pretty… they all bailed!  They made all the common mistakes!

 Salathe:  I spotted the “Elderly’s” on the Headwall this morning.  Long Ledge and off tomorrow for them.

10)  Here Todd leads the first section of the Headwall.  You know, I have been shooting this team for a few days now and all I have seen has been competent, smooth, and calm climbing.  They certainly have their act together and are making an excellent ascent… even if they weren’t “elderly”!



























11)  Middle Cathedral Rock and clouds this morning.



























12)  The Big Guy with a cool cloud nearby… must be some alien force field approaching!!























In other news:  Ottawa Doug came by for a chat and is blasting in the morning.  It should be a cool ascent to watch.

Pete has a partner for the Waterfall route and we will see what happens over there.  He is local employee, Keenan Waechle. You may recall he recently soloed the Trip.  I hope he can haul huge loads!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 14th day of June, 2013.

Bye, Capt. Tom








Awesome photos, Tom,

Awesome photos, Tom, thanks!
Your words about the Nose are harsh but very true, being on the lift is no place to learn and given the crowds, not very considerate either.

Awesome Shots!

Thank you again!