ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/14/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Pretty warm! Nice wind on the Nose but over on the Salathe things looked a lot hotter. A team reached Hollow Flake this morning and promptly bailed… so watch out for dehydration! Another “practice” run on the Nose by the Bigs this morning. Read about it below. Be sure to come on out Sunday morning for the full on record attempt on the Nose. It should start around 6:30am or so and I will update you as I find out the latest word.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: More popular today than the King itself!  Kevin and Elliot topped out in mid afternoon today. They bivied at Peanut and fixed a pitch above as predicted in yesterdays report.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Getting the kit ready to leave Peanut Ledge this morning.

　

Wes Goulding and Dave Gerwe climbed from the BT this morning and were seen in the center of the Circle as I departed. They are looking good.

Below them a solo (who?) is working up the route in good style.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Solo at the start of the Black Tower, shot from out west.

　

Below the Solo is the Oregon Team of Aaron, Joey, and Matt. They climbed to the start of the 5^th as I was departing.

Mescalito: Colorado boys, Dan and John were spotted climbing to the 5^th pitch this afternoon. I assume they have blasted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Top of the 4^th pitch on Mescalito, shot through the trees from the Bridge.

　

Nose: Lots of action on the Nose today. Alex and Hans did their last preparation run for the attempt on Sunday morning. They were supposedly going to climb at what Hondo calls, “a recreational pace of 4 hours”. However, as they progressed up higher Hans realized they were on close to record pace so they gave it a little gas to see what would happen. They hit the tree with a 2:39:57, not bad for a practice run! The lads were sure running it out above short fixed belays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Hans dealing with a stuck rope in the Grey Bands… time lost here Sunday could spell another close call.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

5)  Hans starting to jug the short fixed line to the belay after lowering out from the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

6)  How would you like to lead the Pancake Flake with a 100ft loop of rope only connected to the belay? Didn’t phase Alex!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

7)  Alex and Hans at the Bridge after their climb. Both seemed fit and looking forward to Sunday. Mostly, I think, to get it over with!

　

Several teams are on the route with the 3 man team from yesterday leading the pack. Low down the Canadian team climbed from the Grey bands to the Pancake flake while I was there. There were a couple of teams in the Stovelegs this morning and afternoon. Starting at 2am and hoping for a NIAD were Francis Perrault (he recently soloed New Dawn) and his pard, Oliver. Both are solid climbers and were making good progress all day.  They topped out in 18 hours of climbing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Oliver short fixed and jugging to ECT this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

9)  Francis and Oliver in a tug-of-war at the end of the King Swing.

　

Lower down Scott Stowe and Trevor Jones were spotted this afternoon a pitch short of ECT just before the sun went off of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  The pitch to ElCap Tower.

　

Salathe: A couple of teams were around Hollow Flake this morning. One climbed it and then bailed. The other climbed it but used a “chicken line” so as to make it easier for the leader. Chicken lines are one step below Cheater sticks in the opinion of the Bridge Crew! Someone please … to paraphrase Ronald Regan… “Cut down that Rope!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Chicken line assisted Hollow Flake climb.

　

High above the team of Brian and Travis were last seen climbing over the Roof and onto the headwall of the route. Long ledge tonight and off tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Starting the Headwall, Salathe Wall.

　

In other news: The Bridge was mobbed by climbers all day, and a good time was had by all. However, we as climbers, need to hold down the volume and the use of the more “progressive language” often associated with climbing, when Tourons are present. They have a tendency to see us as foul mouthed dirt-bags, which of course we are, which defeats the purpose of the Ask-a-climber program. So … be nice!! Be considerate of others.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Some of the Crew at the Bridge today.

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 14^th day of June, 2012.

See ya!

Tom