ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/13/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… It couldn’t have been a nicer day here in the Valley. Most of the action was here at the Bridge with all kinds of climbers and few Tourons hanging out. The weather continues to inspire. The time is now.. The place is Elcap…The person missing out is you! The climbing action was mostly on the Nose, now back in command of the attentions of the majority of climbers on the Captain. So drop that warm beer in the trash and get a cold one…park your butt in the most comfortable chair in the place… tell everyone around you to shut the hell up… come with me Puke…you won’t regret it!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Lunar Eclipse: Yep, Lunar is back on the docket! Another one of the visiting Korean teams has decided on this seldom done, but very photogenic route. The team members are, Sungdoo Kim, Sungwon Ryu, Myungktl Park, and Insu Im and don’t even consider asking me to pronounce these guys names!! They were on the route today and climbed in the very black rock that must have been pretty warm this afternoon. The last team on this route, in the Fall, said the belays were in poor condition and needed refurbishing so I hope these guys have some bolts with them!  They are dressed in red, white, yellow, and orange outfits. So they must know something that few of the other climbers seem to…. Dress for success and you will be successful!

Lost in America: The Korean team on this route continues upward. They climbed a couple above the mandatory free pitch this afternoon. I assume I was misinformed as to the length of time they have provisions for, as they are only half way up and continue to climb after 5 days.  The great Korean climber, KiBum Lee came by yesterday and was to visit today but didn't show.  I wanted him to talk to this party to find out what was up, as I have a radio but no Korean language skills.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kum Sek leads off early in the morning on LA.

　

New Dawn: This team of Korean climbers is moving smartly up this big South Buttress climb. They went from LLL past ECT but will most likely just fix and return to ECT to bivy. Daein Kang did most of the leading today while yesterdays leader, Kyoung Han, went to the back of the line and spent the day in the hauling crew, down lower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Daein Kang leads to ECT late in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

Chang gu leads a fixing run off ECT early in the afternoon.

　

Nose: The King has lots of suitors these days. A few wall style and one NIAD got ahead of the Korean youth team and are rapidly speeding away. Below them the team of 5 Korean high school lads bivied on Dolt last night and went past the KS late in the afternoon. They will stay in the Grey Bands tonight. They are doing pretty well, all things considered. Their leader went back to school on the King Swing this afternoon. He hit it pretty well on an early try and actually had the right place and position… problem was that he just didn’t believe it! He came off a couple of times but didn‘t have to. After several passes he was back again where he had been three times before and got the thing figured out and done. There are so many people in the party that after a time the 3 minions lowered off Texas Flake and jugged to the end of the swing.  Just the logistics of such a large party would be daunting, even for a seasoned group of ElCap veterans!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Dolt Tower bivy for the Korean youth team.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Korean lad on the King Swing. See why I don’t like black clothing?!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Korean youth on the big lower out off Texas Flake.  The orange pack saved his outfit and this shot!

　

Lower down, three parties of two marched up the Legs and the first was over Dolt early in the afternoon. So, lots of traffic on Warrens best, and I hear that a team of 4 Germans are going on the route tomorrow too! Take a number sports fans!

 

Salathe: I did see a team working around the boulder problem this morning and into the afternoon. Also saw a team at Long Ledge this morning who climbed off the route early in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Last moves on the Salathe Wall Route.

　

In other news: The Bridge was the center of the action today. Hordes of climbers came by after their recent ascents of the Big Stone. Mark Hudon came early and stayed late! He held court all day and hooked up with old friends and made a lot of new ones too. He told me that he is 54 years old (I thought he was 50) and with that news we have a new oldest person to solo ElCap! Tom Herbert, who climbed Lurking Fear with a friend in a day yesterday,  came by with his wife and daughter and renewed his friendship with Mark. Leo Houlding came by, dressed in a very sharp outfit, and hung out for a time, before leaving for his project on the Caps upper east side. Later, Kate and Kitty came by to meet Mark and share some stories as they were all on the wall at the same time. Many, many more climbers came by and we had a big Bridge party all day long. The Tourons had no idea of the depth of the climbing talent they were talking to. It was great fun!!!

Here are some shots from the Bridge today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

“Now that’s where I ran out of beer”! Mark tells Jordan, and Leo Houlding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Mark talking with Kitty Calhoun and Kate Robertson.  They were voted, Hottest Chics of the Day! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Mark holding court with the gallery of monkey’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Two Montreal lads hoist huge loads on their way to Mescalito…I didn’t get their names… anyone know these guys?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Legendary Yosemite Guide and Lakers fan, Scott Stowe and friend John Wells head off to the Shield.

And you missed it Puke…. What a drag… for you!

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 13^th day of June, 2010.

I am feeling better today too!!!

Bye, Uncle Tom