ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/13/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Ok, so it does rain more than ten minutes in Yosemite.  The skies opened up around 12:30 pm today and it rained pretty hard but it was short in duration… short enough that I was going to poo poo it on the report.  But, around 3pm it really opened up and drenched the Captain.  However, the climbers on the SE Face continued to climb unhindered…with the exception of the Korean climbers on day 7 on LA.  They were on the third from last pitch and exposed to the elements.  They were hosed to be sure.  Still… I encourage climbers to just forget about the weather forecast and get on a route, if only just to fix a couple of pitches.  The action is getting thin on the Captain and we need replacements to head up to the front line! 

Today’s report is brought to you by the Rain God!  Yep, he controls it all when it comes to rain.  I’ve tried to contact him by email but keep getting the “sender blocked” message.  He knows just what I want and doesn’t want to talk about it.  So toss some water into the air, shake a gourd and chant to the Hydrological Deity.
Today’s ElCap Report… brought to you like a soggy sandwich… right now..

Zodiac:  I hear this team is a couple of Spaniards.  They are doing pretty well and I am psyched about the red pants one of them is sporting.  They climbed the Nipple pitch and were on the MoZ pitch as the rains came and I departed.
Doing the ElCap layout on Zodiac’s most famous pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stylish cleaning on the Nipple Pitch.  Note the "chicken line'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost in America:  The Korean Team is a few days behind schedule and must be getting a little hungry by now.  The other team members come down daily to check on their progress and offer visual support from the bridge.  They were caught on the slabs in the later rain today and must be pretty wet by now.  They could be off by dark if they push for the top.
Lower down the team of three with Seth, Justin and Brian are moving along pretty well.  The leader on the so called “mandatory free pitch” did some sparkling free climbing and looked real solid on the pitch. 
Mandatory free climbing on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  There was a convention at the start of the Great Roof this morning and they voted to send the 4 man Korean team out first.  They are using a 3 man system with the 4th tending the bags and coming up after two pitches are led and fixed.  Seems to be working for them.
Three of the four Koreans turning the Great Roof on the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Behind them were the Swiss team of KS infamy yesterday.  After them came a team of two who came over via the 3D late in the day yesterday.  I have a sneaking feeling that they might be my Bro’s, Ryan and Bob, who were supposed to be sending the Shield at the moment and have not appeared there or here.  Where are you Bob?  Yo Ryan?  Yo?

El Corazon:  I did catch a few shots of Alex and Conrad at the end of the Golden Desert pitch which I think is part of this route and Golden Gate as well… not sure as I don’t have a topo of either.
Conrad cleaning while the Kid takes a break.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blast from the Past:
Remember the pic in the report, a few days ago, on the Washington Column?  Well this one was taken 23 years later in 1992 at the same spot.  Where did that thin, fit, man go?  Gone forever!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  It is 6:30pm and raining pretty hard here at the Café where I do my images, and the report, most evenings.  Not good… Not good at all.  The bridge was busy until the skies opened up and I got out of there when a long shower set in.  Several visitors happened by and hung out for a time.
Erik Sloan and Lori Stowe chatting while the rain comes down at the Bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this the 13th day of June 2009.
Later Tom