ElCap Report 6/12/13

ElCap Report 6/12/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Well, there were no cooling clouds to make the day better for climbing or photography.  I hear we are to have a cooling trend in the next few days.  Summer will be here soon enough and that will put an end to the climbing season and the Report.  So stay tuned while we still have some good climbing going on.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The Korean teams, from the Team Extreme Riders, are lacking in experience but making up for it with determination. 

1)  The lead team started out early in the morning and were making good time but got suckered onto the ramp leading left off the Mark of Zorro pitch and wasted many hours ignoring advice sent up on the radio.  Here they are, early on, hauling kit to the top of the Circle.

























2)  The second team climbed the Circle and later the Nipple pitch and just might catch the lead team.  This shot catches them jugging to the center of the Circle as the sun came on.


























3)  Scott and Matthew Phillips had a better day today.  They moved away from the last Korean team by making good time on the Black Tower, and later Scott did a nice lead into the Circle, shown here.


























4)  Lost in America:  Jean and Jonas are nearly finished the LA part of the route and were joining ZM as I departed.  They are shown here moving off the bivy early in the day.

























5)  The first light got to Jean, on the portaledge, around 10am.


























6)  Jonas just climbed to the light and soon the crux pitch was behind them.


























SSPO:  Doug took the day off to gather water and food for blasting in a couple of day.  He is spending some time with his wife, Madeleine, who came with him for a few days of Yosemite time.


Nose:  The Death Squad, from yesterday, made Dolt Tower but soon bailed this morning.  They caused a lot of problems yesterday and as a result, a local guide is out a few grand as he and client had to abandon their climb and several teams also gave up behind them.  These climbers are NOT Koreans!! ....So…..



























8)  Doug and John from Jackson WY, who nearly ate the Death Squads bag yesterday, continued onward and were shot here headed for the Boot Flake this afternoon.


























A TER group, of three, is at the back of the line, but moving upward toward Dolt Tower.

The mixed Canadian team of, Karin Pocock and Dave Stimson, climbed past the Great Roof this morning with Karin leading it and Pancake Flake.  Looking good up there!

Lower down, a team of three made the Legs in the morning and moved along well toward Dolt, this afternoon.

3D:  A team of two came across the Traverse this morning, and were at Camp 4 by mid afternoon.

9)  Salathe:  The team with the Yellow bag, Edwin Sheppard and Asher March, from yesterday, moved along very well, and were off the headwall, as I departed around 3pm.


























Lower down the “Eldery team” of Todd and Elaine bivied a pitch below the Ear and had climbed that feature by the time I left.  In reality they are just in their 50’s and not in a league with relics like, Donini and Lowe!  They are moving along well enough to be having some fun.

10)  The leader of the Team Extreme Riders, I.C. Kang, works hard for his team by driving back and forth to San Fran, on a regular basis, to pick up and drop off members of the group arriving and departing the US.  He has 4 teams on ElCap at the moment and all are going upward, even though none have ever done anything remotely like ElCap before!  He is the only member of the team who speaks English and thus has to almost babysit his groups, along with making all arrangements for them.  He and his team are generous and respectful to a fault and have garnered a fine reputation with local climbers here.  I count him as one of my best friends.  Here he is this morning… watching his flock … until fatigue over took him and he got a little nap in the EC Meadow.






















In other news:  Not a lot of other news today… so I will finish up now.

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 12th day of June, 2013.

Later, Tom




Go Team Extreme Riders!

I also think the #6 photo is incredible.
Thanks Tom!

Thanks Tom

Thanks Tom for all the great reporting and photography. I never miss a report!

Pic #6

Tom, that is a beautiful shot - the wall is like a piece of art work and you capture it perfectly. I really enjoy following your postings from up here in Seattle.

Steven Strong

Sweet shot Tom!

Awesome composition, love the lighting. Lost in America looks like a great pick for a shorter wall. Thanks for your diligence. BTW, the action shot of IC Kang is ... priceless. Well done buddy!

I love reading your reports

I love reading your reports Tom. I look forward to reading them every day!


Photo 6 of Lost in America is beautiful! Nice catch Tom!
Now I want to climb that route!

Man of the day!!

Love the contrast between death squad and Korean squads. Hope YMS awards the guide the money he is out (if the guide is a YMS one). Sorry Tom, but you're .......Man of the Day !!!