ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/12/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Another killer day here in the ditch.  It was breezy and cloudy most of the day… Sweet!!  Many of the teams are getting pretty high up on the routes now and it seems that there are not many replacements.  While the forecast continues to call for 30% rain it has not happened.  These temps are making for low water consumption and higher energy levels to climb with.  Better than the weather for the usual June.  So come on out before the real summer weather arrives… you will be glad you did!

 

Today’s ECR is on right now… so suck it up Pukes and let your imaginations run wild because it could be you up there sending the big leads with Conrad Anker as your belay slave… No?  Probably not, but you can dream anything you wish!

Zodiac:  The boys high on the route are putting the pitches behind them and the I last saw they were headed for peanut ledge at 3:30 pm.  They have had a smooth ascent and should be off late this evening or maybe tomorrow morning if they enjoy a bivy and the Peanut ledge.
Lower down the team that blasted yesterday is up in the White Circle now.  Another smooth team moving right along.
Climbing into the White Circle on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost in America:  The, way behind schedule, Korean team, is pushing their way up the route in a steady manner.  They are on the ZM part of the route with just three pitches to go tomorrow.  They should be off in the afternoon some time.
Korean leader doing the “Fly of Die” pitch high on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the team of three Americans, Seth, Justin, and Brian blasted off today.  This team is looking good with a yellow ledge they are keeping out to lounge on and various bright outfits to make the shots look good.  They are the first thing the Tourons see on the Wall.  They were a couple below the so called “mandatory free climbing pitch” when I left.
Looking cool on Lost in America.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tangerine Trip:  Pete and Leo were moving off the last bolt ladder belay when I last saw them this afternoon.  Top tomorrow or maybe late tonight if Pete really has to be off the route like he said yesterday.

Nose:  The clusterfucks continue in the Stovelegs, so much so that almost 80% of the teams involved in these things end up bailing.  The Swiss team was the only one surviving yesterdays log jam.  They climbed above ECT today and were spanked on the King Swing.  They tried it in six different places and finally got it right after considerable wasted time.  Then they brought the bag and the second down to Eagle Ledge, losing the 100ft they had climbed up the Boot.  I last saw them at the regular belay across from the Boots top at 3:30pm.  Topo?  Where?
Way too high on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a two man team survived the Stovelegs and were last seen climbing above Dolt Tower as I left.  I hear there many teams jockeying for position on and around Sickle Ledge, but know this …. Most will bail so if you are thinking about the Nose, just go up there and get in line and perhaps it will evaporate in front of you!
I did see a team of 4 Koreans come across the 3D traverse late in the morning.  Nicely decked out in bright shirts they made quite a sight.

Shield:  I think I saw Bob and Ryan in line behind the Koreans on the Muir part of this route.  They should be under the Roof by now… tomorrow will bring the wind and cold to this team… will they be ready?

Albatross:  Ian and Pierre are once again putting on a clinic up there.  They make short work of Tribal last week and are doing the same on this seldom done route.  They cruised up to the Canoe today and by now should be on Chickenhead ledge.
Pierre joining Ian high on the wall at the Canoe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

El Corazon;  I looked for these guys in the morning but they were hauling bags so I went back east to the bridge.  This afternoon I went down to see them again and they were hauling bags again!  They are at the start of the wide stuff now… lots of fun awaits on this much feared section of the wall. 

Salathe:  I saw the two teams from yesterday heading off the Block and up to the Roof.  The first team was over it and high on the headwall when I left and the other team was just below. 
Moving off the Block on the Salathe Wall Route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blast from the Past.
Tom Evans at Camp 4 on the Nose/3D in the sweltering heat of July 1983.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Skyler and Andy are poised to blast off on the Reticent Wall in the next few days.  We need some climbers to step up and get on the routes as the present crop is moving toward the conclusion of their routes.
It would be nice to see a competent team on the Nose for a change.  Inexperienced teams should just get over their “ElCap with no preparation” fetish and do some training climbs…. Otherwise the Big Trades will continue to make fools of them and prevent others from a fair shot at the routes. 
So that’s the way it is for this the 12th day of June 2009.
Remember:  A climb worth doing, is worth doing well.
Later ECP’s