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ElCap Report 6/10/2015

Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 06/11/2015 - 01:53

ElCap Report 6/10/15

By Tom Evans

Yo.. I awoke to a sky of solid, dark gray, clouds this morning…not so good!  However the rain held off until around 1 this afternoon, and then it was just a quick sprinkle.  There are not a lot of climbers on the wall at the moment, but after tomorrow, with improving weather, the multitudes will certainly return!

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac:  In a miraculous turn of events, the TER team of 4 older climbers, will have climbed and hauled the entire White Circle today!  I guess I.C. Kang, the trip leader, had some words of encouragement on the radio for them!  Here the leader of the climb is off onto the Nipple pitch early this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Lower down the loneliest member of the team waits for the order to let the bags out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3) TOM'S SHOT OF THE DAY!!

Zenyatta Mondatta:  The solo Korean climber, Sang Woo Lee, is really smoking up the route!  He climbs fast and handles the logistics like a man with a lot more experience than a rookie ElCap climber.  Here is his kit at the belay on the pitch to the start of the Lightning Bolt Roofs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Here Sang Woo is leading the Lightning Bolt Roofs.  I wanted to get some shots further along the pitch, after this shot I  turned away, to have a few words with a friend, and when I returned to the camera, he had finished the pitch!!  Impressive lead!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Tangerine Trip:  The mixed team of TER climbers did better today and had moved out of the path of the Aurora team of Matt Lambert and Chris Gibson who are just behind them.  Her we see them at the junction of the Trip and Aurora.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over on New Dawn, the Hassinger brothers bailed from the route this morning with time and weather concerns.

6)  On the lower Nose I noticed a climber in the Legs late yesterday afternoon as I was departing.  I figured they were on a Dolt Run.  I spotted their fly on Dolt Tower this morning and it remained there while I was shooting.  Their plans are unknown to me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)   A team came over from the 3D today. I noticed the leader using a “cheater stick”on the great roof.…So… you know what is coming folks….

CONGRATULATIONS 3D TEAM, YOU GOT THE SEASON’S FIRST     “STICK OF THE DAY!!!!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  After a time Craig did a masterful lead on the Pancake Flake, as seen here.  Nice!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Over on the Real Nose the crew was ledged up all day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Brad and Mason had premature lift-off on their project.  The photographers dominated the scene most of the time.  I did get a shot of Mason pushing out after a fall, getting a better look at the holds.  The rain finished them for the day and they were at the Bridge by 2pm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  I did see Kenny and Hunter, low down a couple of days ago and spotted them again today near the Hollow Flake.  They are doing Pacemaker.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  On the Salathe I did spot two teams of three people.  The lowest is a UK team of two men and a women, seen here at the Hollow Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Higher, a team of three Koreans climbed the Ear and were finishing the pitch above as I departed as the rain came on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The Nose is about to heat up with the weather in the next day or so.  A long spell of warm dry weather is on the way.

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 10th day of June, 2015.

Capt. Tom

 

 

#1Submitted by Anonymous on Sat, 06/13/2015 - 04:29.

CHEATER STICKER REVEALED!!!

Tom,

It was not Craig, but me, Doug from Oakland, who got busted using our coat-harnger sling on the Great Roof... but with all that fixed mank in there just a foot out of reach, who could resist?!?

And again, it was my disguised in a shell trying to redeem myself on Pancake Flake, damn that thing is sooooo good!!! No cheating on that one...

Thanks again for the photos, honored to have snagged the STICK OF THE DAY this season.

- Doug

#2Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 06/12/2015 - 03:33.

stick of the day

I don't see a stick in the photo. I see a long sling under the roof with a carabiner attached.

#3Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 06/11/2015 - 03:06.

STICK OF THE DAY!!! woohoo!

STICK OF THE DAY!!! woohoo! oh man, what an honor. i think it's motivated, though: Craig knows he better get home in time for Tara's birthday, or else!

 

Guess what?... I was wrong it was not Craig at all but another team!!!  It was a metal stick so it looked like a sling in the poor light.. it was a "stick" nuntheless.