ElCap Report 6/10/13

ElCap Report 6/10/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… Remember that blistering weather I have been reporting?? Gone! Today dawned with partly cloudy skies and cool temperatures. I had the day off from the Bridge and had a nice time shooting from a favorite shot in the EC Meadow. I think the rush to the Captain will be on tomorrow. Not a whole lot of action one the Cap today. So…..
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: While there are 4 parties on the route only two showed up while I was shooting. The lead TER team climbed to the top of the Black Tower by mid afternoon.
1) Here we see Um, Tae Hong, leading the start of the Black Tower pitch, while Jang, Chun Dal and Jung, Ok Yeol tend the kit and belay.
2) The upper part of the Black Tower pitch has the coolest set of white lines on the rock.
The two other Korean Teams are blasting later today and tomorrow.
3) The two man team, from Oregon, jugged to the top of the second and lead off in mid afternoon. This is
Matthew Phillips hitting it hard on the first jug off the deck.
4) Scott is seen here leading off on the 3rd pitch.
5) Lost in America: Jean and Jonas have made up most of the time they lost yesterday, when their lines got tangled, hauling kit. Here we see Jonas working hard on some tricky hooking, right off the belay.
6) Dan Hackett and Mike Kirby made it to the bolt ladders this afternoon. Here they are on the first of the
two. Off tomorrow.
7) Nose: The two person team, of Dave and Karin, who climbed the Stovelegs to Dolt yesterday have moved up to ECT and fixed Texas Flake. Here they are on ElCap Tower (aka ECT) with a nice view of Texas Flake.
8) Lower down there seems to be an abundance of suitors, and a climbing shop and grocery store’s worth of
kit on Sickle Ledge. Should be a legendary start in the morning, as many lurkers are about, thinking no one
knows their presence.
9) There seems to be an abundance of fixed ropes up to Sickle these days. This is the first rap station down from there.
10) I saw a Red Tailed Hawk snatch a hapless rodent, in the EC Meadow this morning, and watched him have
brunch on a tree a couple of hundred yards away. I fired up the big gun and made the shot… beautiful bird, it
was too!
In other news: Cooler weather seems to have set in for a while and, as a result, we expect to see a lot of action on the Captain. Pete and the boys returned to the deck in mid afternoon. They did a nice tag and rap on Lurking Fear. He reported that Mark Hudon and crew passed by yesterday, on the way to the top. I think I saw Ben and Katie Ditto above the Changing Corner’s this afternoon. 
Ottawa Doug showed up and not long afterward set off to haul kit to the start of South Seas to PO. 
Big Andy Kirkpatrick and fellow Brit, Steve Bate, fresh off a fast ascent of Zodiac, cleverly disguised as a Korean team, are abandoning their shot at Tribal in favor of a fluff ascent of Lurking Fear.  Ho hum? We will see…There's always an epic waiting in Andy's bag.. it is just a matter of releasing it!!
Aaron Jones and client, Charles, are set to hit the Nose in the morning. 
Blah, blah, blah…..
So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 10th day of June, 2013.
Later, Tom

Fluff ascent

What does it mean to carry out a 'fluff ascent'? Am genuinely curious :)

From Tom: A fluff ascent is a climb that is so far beneath your abilities that it is "easy". Like Alex Honnold climbing Nutcracker!

TER following


Can you get a couple of shots for the rest of TER?

I will be joining next week in the camp.

Keep up with a great work!

Appreciating it.


The climbers on the Nose that you referred to may be Karin and Dave from BC. Woo hoo Karin!!!!!!


Nice shot of the bird! And the rocks ain't bad either.

Sweet report, Tom! I look

Sweet report, Tom! I look forward to these reports even more now that I'm working out in the Midwest. Keeps me motivated and stoked to get back to Cali!

Good Shots

Really nice photos today Tom!

great shots tom!! there in

great shots tom!!

there in two weeks.. keep the cool weather around a little longer.

can't wait!!


Up close and personal with this set up shots Tom.

Awesome, as usual.

Thank you.