ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/10/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Perfect days for climbing continue into the distant future. Big News brewing. Record run at the Woman’s Nose today… more below. In a few days the Men’s Nose record will see some practice runs and a serious attempt by Hans and Honnold on June 17^th. Practice on 13 and 14 June is scheduled. The speed attempts are always interesting and amazing to watch. So make plans to get your butt here to watch the proceedings.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The Korean’s pushed off the route last night, so now we just have two solo climbers on the route. The higher solo, climbed to Peanut ledge as I departed and will most likely head off this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Solo preparing to start this morning.

　

The lower solo, Dave Hutchison, bivied at the top of the BT and was last seen cleaning the Nipple pitch. He looks solid so far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Dave passing the Nipple.

　

Shortest Straw: Matt got a little lost on the route last evening but was back on track by today. He climbed to Peanut this afternoon and will climb off this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Matt heading to the Zodiac portion of his climb.

　

LA: Steve Schneider and partner, Larry, climbed in the center of the route today. The light is really poor to shoot the route in the middle of the day so you get a morning shot below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Breaking the bivy on the Straw this morning.

　

New Dawn: Raging Roger Putnam and Brad Potter are smoking up the route. I think they plan to be off tonight! A two bivy ascent of this route is unusual to be sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Brad and Roger talking it over in the last sun of the day for them.

　

Nose: Most of the action was above ECT today. The Colorado Girls, Jessica Meiris and Quin Brett, made a run at the woman’s record today and looked to be pretty close this time. I don’t have a result for you at this moment. I picked them up as they climbed the Texas Flake. They cruised the King Swing and were pretty quickly in the Grey Bands. However traffic slowed them down around the Great Roof but they passed ahead of the rest of the teams there and took off. I last saw them at 2:30 above the Changing Corner’s. They looked sharp all day.  UPDATE!!  They broke the record with a 10:19.  Congratulations to this speedy woman's team!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Quin leading the pitch above Eagle ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

7)  Quin leading above the Changing Corner’s.

　

Lower down Hans Florine and a buddy were out for a leisurely 10 hour climb of the route. They caught up with everyone at the Great Roof and had a leisurely lunch at Camp 5 later.

The Dumpster Divers did the King Swing and were headed to Camp 4 as I departed. Maybe Camp 5 for them tonight.

Higher up Pete and Mark reached the top this afternoon. They were closely followed by the JTree Girls. Right on Girls!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Last pitch of the Nose with the JTree girls behind Pete and Mark.

　

ElCorazon: I did see Nik and Madaleine climb the Golden Desert pitch this morning and later saw them on the last pitch… I assume they sent the route!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Nik belaying on the Golden Desert pitch while Madaleine starts off the Tower to the People below.

　

In other news: I was talking to a group of Tourons at the Bridge this morning who, like many others, wanted to know about the climber in the Nat Geo article and the 60 minutes program. I talked about him a little and then asked if they would like to see what he really looked like. So happens that Alex was walking across the other side of the bridge right then. So I pointed him out and it was love at first sight. Alex, always the gentleman, chatted with them for a time and they soon came to realize that he doesn’t look like Iron Man! Thanks Alex for being the nice guy that you are!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Alex chatting with the Tourons at the Bridge today.

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 10^th day of June, 2012.

Later

Tom