ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/09/12

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Pretty windy today, especially in the afternoon. Climbers high on the cliff were bundled up as the afternoon progressed. The action has calmed down from the frenzy yesterday. Today is free fee park day so there were a lot of Tourons in town but fortunately the traffic has been light. I was wondering just where the hell you are? Now is the time to strike! It doesn’t get any better than the conditions we have been having this Spring.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Everyone is moving right along. The disabled team of Craig, Jarem, and Davis should be off by now. They bivied on Peanut last night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Peanut ledge. Someone see’s me shooting him!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Leading off on the next to the last pitch.

　

The Korean team passed the Solo climber this morning at the MOZ. The Koreans are headed to a bivy at Peanut and off tomorrow early.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Korea’s, Extreme Team Riders, passing the Solo this morning.  He has kept up with them thus far this afternoon.

　

Lower down Dave Hutchison entered the Circle this afternoon and will bivy at the start of the Nipple pitch tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Dave leading into the Circle.

　

Straw: Matt climbed out of the Circle and into the broken dark rock higher up. The hard pitches are behind him and I think he will be off in a couple more days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Matt leading the large flake on the Circle’s left side this morning.

　

Lost in America: Steve Schneider, who has been lost in America for the past month, appeared today with a partner. They spent most of the day jugging and hauling kit up the miles of fixed line he placed last month.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Steve on the right and the new guy, Larry, on the left.  At least the he knows how to dress! Heather… clothe your man please!

　

New Dawn: Roger Putnam and Brad Potter have little patience for the leisure ascents other teams seem to be making these days. In two days they have climbed to Wino Tower, a feat usually taking 3 to 4 for most parties.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Roger on the traverse to the shallow corners leading to Wino Tower.

　

Nose: Most of the traffic has moved high on the route. The JTree Girls bivied a pitch below Camp 5 and were headed to Camp 6 this afternoon. I think they may bivy just a couple from the top tonight. I doubled down on my bet that they would succeed and will reap the rewards tomorrow when they top out!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Heading to Camp 5 early in the morning.

Higher up a couple of parties moved toward the top. Pete and Mark were spotted this afternoon above the Changing Corners and will get off tomorrow, early. I have talked with several of the teams that had to pass through the Show and, with the exception of one, all have said that it was no inconvenience to them. In fact, one was short on water and food and were supplied with enough to get them to the top. So… good on you Pete!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  The Pete and Mark Show, above the Changing Corner’s this afternoon.

　

Lisa and JC bivied at Camp 4 last night and were a pitch below Camp 5 when I departed at 3 today. They should make Camp 6 tonight and be off in the afternoon tomorrow.

Lower down a team climbed from Dolt to the top of the Boot while I was there and will most likely push on to Camp 4 this evening. The days are long now and most teams are taking advantage of the late light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Dave Secunda, back on the Cap after many years, is seen climbing the Boot in mid afternoon.

　

A team of three, from Michigan, climbed up the Legs this afternoon and made Dolt around 3pm. They are easily the worst dressed team I have seen this season. The dumpsters in their home town must be empty now! Because of my Mr. Nice guy policy, I will not subject you to the horror of their appearance!

El Corazon: I didn’t see Nik or Madaleine today, and I did go out west to shoot them… I did see what looked like some gear in the steep corner system but couldn’t see anyone manning it.

Salathe: I did see a couple of teams topping out this morning and a team rapping the route this afternoon but no other climbers.

In other news: After a month here, my energy level is slowly wearing down.

I may have to take a day or two off from the report in the near future. So … expect that some time soon, when things are slow on the wall.

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 9^th day of June, 2012.

Later,

Tom

News Flash ... happening now... climber with broken ankle on top of West Face of ElCap... possible air evacuation.