ElCap Report 6/08/10

ElCap Report 6/08/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The beautiful days continue to bless us here in the Valley. A little warm looking on some of the routes, while others seemed to have a stiff breeze blowing to cool things off. The Salathe holds almost all the action these days. You may recall from yesterday that I commented that all the parties bailed from the Legs and Sickle Ledge. I was kidding …. But coming back today I found that indeed, they all bailed!!! The river has gone down some but most of the meadows are still full of water. 

Today’s Elcap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The dark dressed team of three Koreans appeared today and hauled their kit to the top of their fixed lines. They have not repented and thus I assume my main man, Kyoung Han does not have the clout I thought he had. If only I.C. Kang was here to snap these pukes into line! Anyway, this is one of the few shots you will see of this team.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hauling and cleaning on Zodiac’s 5th.

Lower down a mixed team was spotted climbing the third, with the woman in the lead. She had a simple, yet functional blue sports top that enabled her back and shoulders to get some sun while allowing her to get maximum reach for those high placements. Her short, tight, synthetic shorts allowed for unrestricted movement and lower body cooling. She climbed with confidence and quickly dispatched the pitch.  Unfortunately, I didn’t think to look at her partner, some dude in a white T-shirt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Making a stylish reach on Zodiac’s third.

 

Trip: Justin climbed 7 and was on 8 as I departed this afternoon around 3pm. He is going well and his orange shirt is sure to draw a lot more camera time than black ones do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Justin on the Trip’s 8th.

Aurora: The women are moving along quite well but unfortunately arrived at the large black slime pitch just below the Golden Finger of Fate. Kate had the lead for the slime pitch and dressed appropriately in rain gear. Sort of reminded me of Ghost Busters!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kate and Kitty, slimed on Aurora.

Mescalito: The Spanish crew should be topping out as I type these lines. They bivied below the Ships Bow, a few from the top. I got there as they climbed the pitch to the Bow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Belay before the Bow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leader climbing to the Bow.

A new team appeared on the route today. They are Jan and Mark I hear. They have somehow acquired some old bed parts and have fashioned portaledges from them… very old school Boys!! I like it. They had done the Sea Gull and were moving up the dihedral as I left.

Tribal Mark: Mark got up a little late but was soon out on the lead. After a time a rappeller brought a bag that Mark dropped…. I looked in…. and I found…. all the mans hooks! Not good! He lead with out seeming to have any difficulties today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark and his show.

The Lines: They keep coming down the lines. I did talk to a couple of the honchos today who were in charge of keeping things safe and fun. They will be starting again in the morning at 9am.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Downward bound, past some sweet EC rock.

Nose: Aussie Andrew and Ben Doyle, the guys with the huge packs yesterday, were spotted doing the Great Roof this morning and disappeared from my view passing the Glowering Spot this afternoon. They are still sporting those packs but should top out this evening.

Lower Down, Oklahoma boys, Tony and Clay took a little run up to Eagle ledge today to get some exercise. They are going to make a determined run for speed a couple of days from now.

Lowest down a couple of parties jammed together in the lower Stovelegs and came to a screeching halt. I left them a couple of miles from Dolt, with “Bailers” written all over their faces.

 

Muir: I did see Alex White climb most of the final corner on this sweet route before I departed. He should be on top now. The lad climbed with confidence all the way up… Nice Solo Son!!

Shield: Javier and Pedro continued up the headwall this morning and after a time made Chicken Head ledge. Off late or off tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Javier and Pedro hauling the freight to Chicken Head Ledge.

Lower down the team of two, I assume to be Adam and Jordan, climbed smartly up the Groove Pitch and onto the Triple Cracks in the afternoon. They are both sporting some serious colors and thus are climbing well. Remember…. Koreans especially…. Poor colors mean poor climbing!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cleaning and hauling the Groove Pitch.

I hear that another team is headed to this route very shortly.  Mash and partner Justin, who is a Snow Ranger at Tuckerman Ravine, are going tomorrow.

Pace Maker: I got a call from Piton Pete this morning telling me he had lost his way on this route and was stalled at the bottom of a nasty looking off-width, not mentioned on the topo! Sandbag topo’s…. a great idea…. Chris Mac should have a book of those. Topo’s that show the line but don’t tell what the features are…. Exciting to be sure!! Anyway, he was in the “phone booth” when he called and I gave what slim advice I could conjure up. He continued upward.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pete, calling collect, from the phone booth.

Salathe/Freerider: Total confusion over there. Several parties jammed up past the Block and below the Roof. The mixed team from yesterday, supposedly Melissa and Duncan, climbed off the Block this morning and into a clusterfuck of free climbers working the cracks to the Roof, wall style teams just trying to get up the thing and speed climbers, Brad and Scott, trying for a Salathe, Nose link up in a day. The horror. The confusion. The frustration. Welcome to the big time folks!! Deal or die!

The line continues to grow lower down and it can only get worse!  The Ranger team of Jacob and Chris Bellino are going soon too... leave the 9mm at home Boys!

Out West: The solo on Lost World struck it rich today as the LF team bailed and left him 8 gallons of water at the base! Sweet! Nothing finer than water carried to the base on the backs of Bailers! He is psyched!

In other news: The river is finally coming down a bit. My campsite is no longer in danger of submerging. The days are warm but not too warm. A cooling trend is in the works. The Captain has room for you but…. You have to get here.

The Bridge was busy most of the day. Solo climbing Heroes came to the Bridge to hang out and bask in the Glory of their ascents. Brian Sadowsky, just down from Tribal came with some Cobras and an attractive woman on his arm… nice eye candy for the groveled’s on the Bridge. Ben Venter, fresh from the Nose solo also stopped by. Neither looked like they had done anything, much less soloing ElCap!

So that’s the way it is for this the 8th day of June, 2010.

Remember, if you aren’t here, then you are there!

Later Tom

 

 

 

Way to go, Justin! Keep it up

Way to go, Justin! Keep it up bro. Thanks Tom for the great shots.

One of the

One of the bed-portaledge-guys in Mescalito is a Czech, by the name of Jan.

CONGRATULATIONS LIL BROTHER!

CONGRATULATIONS LIL BROTHER! No better way to celebrate graduating from college: literally being on top of the world! Proud of you --- sis
Thanks for the update Tom!

I wonder where Justin got

I wonder where Justin got that shirt...
Eldon

Absolutely amazing Alex; I am

Absolutely amazing Alex; I am so proud of you! Thanks Tom for providing the tool that allowed Alex's family and friends to witness a dream fulfilled.

Watching someone live their

Watching someone live their dream is an incredible thing! We watched for photos and read your comments every day here in Kansas, Kentucky and Georgia. Thanks Tom for keeping us in touch. Your website is a real tribute to the sport and a great service to family and friends. And Congratulations, Alex! We are so proud of you!

WAY TO GO ALEX!!! and thank

WAY TO GO ALEX!!!
and thank you Tom for the updates and photos.
Mark

Right on, Brian & Ben! A solo

Right on, Brian & Ben!
A solo trip on the Big Stone. Oh, yeah.

Mark's got a couple tricks up his sleeve, I'm bettin'.
All in all, that's one busy hunk of granite. (dammit)Skully

Hudon without his hooks? A

Hudon without his hooks? A little spice for flavor....

GO MARK!

-John Fine

Petes lost no way it cant be

Petes lost no way it cant be true :)

Great day on El Cap Looks like you not only had a little eye candy on the Zodiac but on the bridge too.

Russ

Hi..Uncle

Hi..Uncle Tom....

HaHaHaHa.....

We have to learn about BigWall Fashion....

Thanks for your generous shot..

HaHaHa...

I.C.Kang...

Thanks for the report Tom...

Thanks for the report Tom... The colorful climbers on the Shield are Adam and Jordan, although Jerome might suit him!
 
Reply:   Thanks for the update on the names.  Tom