ElCap Report 6/07/09

ElCap Report 6/07/09
By Tom Evans
Yo…. Sweet day today with no sign of rain!  It was pretty chilly but probably just right on the wall.  There were teams on the Nose but most of the action is still on the SE Face of the great rock.  The crowds were mild but several climbing friends stopped by to say hi and see what was up on the Captain.  Everyone is moving up or topping out. 
So drop what you are doing and clear your schedule because the weather is perfect and you are coming with old Tom for one more ride on the Captain.
Today’s report is brought to you by the 4 Korean teams on SE Face routes.  They are graduates of a climbing school in Soul (Team Extreme Riders) and are out for a final exam.  One team is made of the Principal and a couple of teachers and all are in their mid to late 60’s… that’s right… 60’s!!!  Best of luck men!
Today’s ECR…

Zodiac:  The two shadowing solo’s topped out this afternoon after making good ascents.  They never shared a rope but did share the bivies and seemed to become real buddies by the end.  Congratulations men!
Not far behind the last solo was the team of Seth and Justin who put down a two bivy ascent.  Sweet.
Lower down Major Packer and his crew hit the ropes this morning around 10 and he cruised up the fixed lines with apparent ease.  Looking good guys.  They are planning on a three day ascent and by the looks of it just might get it done!

1)  Major Packer juggin the line on pitch one of Zodiac.




























2)  The Major and some of the support crew at the top of the 3rd on Zodiac.




























Lower down the team of older Korean climbers started on the route via the direct start… too bad to miss the good climbing on the first and second pitches.

Shortest Straw:  This three man Korean team is moving right along now with the only difficulty seeming to be having to stick clip the rivet ladders.  But what they lack in stature they make up for in tenacity.  They were heading out of the White Circle as I departed around 3:30 today. 
3)  On the Straw with the 9 O’clock Roof to the left.

























4)  Reaching high on the Straw.

























5)  First light on the Straw.



























6)  Left side of the White Circle with the Korean team sticking the rivets.


























Virginia:  Leo and Pete stayed in late but got going later in the day with Leo leading the pitch up to the junction with the Trip.  The Korean team passed them and should be long gone by the time they get moving on the Trip.
7)  Leo and Pete chillin while the Koreans move bags and salute the Captain.

























Lost in America:  A team of two Koreans are on the route now.  They finished the 2nd pitch as I left.

Trip:  The team of 4 Koreans… notice anything here folks??  Like maybe the Koreans are the major force on the SE Face at the moment?!  Anyway, they are moving right along on the trip and were last seen in the center dihedrals. 
Lower down a two man team was seen climbing the cool 5th pitch and on to the 6th as I left.

Mescalito:  I picked up the Thousand Oaks crew a few pitches below the top and last saw them heading for the base of the last pitch in mid afternoon.  Should be off by dusk.  Looks like they had an adventure they will remember for a long time.
8)  Waiting on the Bow, Mesalito.



























The Nose:  A party of two climbed quickly to DT and retired.  It was a practice run and went very well.  Lower, a team of three made Dolt in mid afternoon and were headed to ECT when I left.  The Nose is ready for the onslaught.  I didn’t see anyone on the Salathe but did see some guys on the top of Mammoth and assume they are the Muir team back on the route..

Blast from the Past:
9)  Tom Evans and George Homer on the top of the Dome, May 1970.

























In other news:  The crowds were not bad today and most Tourons couldn’t get by the telescope without stopping for a look.  Several had heard about the Major’s climb and asked to see him.  The BBC guys were around the bridge shooting for a future video I assume.  Erik Sloan dropped by the his Mom in tow.  He is soon to be working at the MRB, and it will be nice to have him in town.  A lot of other climbers came by to look or just hang out… it was a nice time today.   The climbing community is still in shock about the recent deaths in China…. What can you do?  What can you say?  We have suffered several deaths in the recent past and all are sobering reminders of just how tenuous our hold on life really is.  We will go forward as we must, for life continues and we hope for better days.
So that’s the way it is for this the 7th day of June 2009.  It was a day well spent for many of us in the wonderful Valley of the Yosemite…
Later Tom


How tall are those dudes? I thought the rivets were close in many areas, I'm 5 10. It would have been bent arm drilling for me. How tall was lovelace?

To Phil Packer

Supporting all your endeavours to raise funds for Help for Heroes
Carol & Roy JOnes-Stockprt, Cheshire


Thanks for the pics and news as ever Tom.

Also congrats to Brian for his solo of Zodic. JM (Denver)

Major Packer

Am sending out support for Major Packer and his team!! Ya Hoo!


Thanks Tom. Did I say I really like the blasts from the past?


El Capitan

Thank you!!!


Keep it up Tom, I feel shamed into working out harder everytime I read one of these!


Echoin' the 'Bone......Cool Straw pics, Tom.
I wouldn't worry about the Koreans.....I've been there.

Koreans storm El Cap!

Coo pics of Straw, i's been a while since you shot that one.