ElCap Report 6/04/09

ElCap Report 6/04/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cold and windy here in the valley with a huge chance of rain today… but of course, no rain!  The bridge was crowded today with Tourons and climbers alike.  Nose and Salathe are still devoid of any sign of life, while most of the action continues to be on the upper east side of the SE Face.
It was very much like an October day here and everyone is wondering where all the forecast rain went.  Today’s report is brought to you by a refreshing family of German Baptists who came by the bridge and just couldn’t believe what was going on up on the Cap and on a slack line from the bridge to the edge of the river.  Everyone  seemed in great spirits today and we all had a good time.

Today’s ElCap Report.

Zodiac:  Asa (Elsa? Some one knows his name) still owns the front spot of the two solo climbers presently on this route.  He climbed the Nipple pitch today and may hang there tonight or perhaps go one more pitch higher.
1)  He hauled to the start of the Mark of Zorro as I departed.

























Brian Sadonsky is the lower solo and is moving along just a pitch behind Asa.  He climbed the center pitch of the White Circle and I think will do the Nipple pitch before nightfall.  Both solos seem to be quite comfortable up there and are moving along smoothly.

Virginia:  Pete and Leo moved up the edge of the roof today and are putting on a clinic of how to keep too many bags organized. 
2)  Pete finishing the 4th pitch on Virginia.

























The Trip:  Well the mystery of the 17 hour ascent team of two days ago is solved.  Alex Honnold and his buddy Josh scampered up the route for a good workout.  Alex had nothing much good to say about the Trip but it is certainly not the kind of route he thrives on!
A Korean team of four climbed and hauled three pitches today.  They were sharply dressed and they moved along well.
3)  Climbing past the Black Cat on the Trip.




























Mescalito:  The lads are moving right along on the center of this great route.  They had the crux pitch done when I left and I am thinking that they just might stretch the day out so as to make the famous Bismarck Ledge for the bivy.  It was cold on the wall but they seemed to be unphased.
4)  The belay at the end of the Molar Traverse on Mescalito.


























The Shield:  The two Stephan’s, from Austria, who did Zodiac last week, are over the roof and on the headwall of this classic Westside route.  This was the coldest place on the planet today, outside the polar regions.  They looked really cold and the wind had the ropes stretched straight out to the east and wiggling like a snake.  They were finished with the Groove pitch and going higher when I left.  Bundle up lads!!
5) In the Groove and in the wind on the Shield.



























Blast from the Past:
6)  My 1997 shot of the legendary Jim Bridwell checking out the Captain for one of his last two lines on the Captain.



























In other news:  The bridge was awash in Tourons and climbers all day in spite of the fall conditions.  I was busy with the Ask a Climber program all day.  The weather continues to alarm the NOAA experts but threatens no one here in the valley.  Tomorrow is supposed to be bad but so were the last 5 days and we got nothing but good climbing weather, albeit unusually cold.
The big Trades continue to languish in the backwater of weather paranoia.
The Upper East side routes are getting all the attention as insurance, perhaps, against an accurate weather report.  So come on out and roll the dice and maybe you will win or maybe you will lose!
7)  This German Baptist family from Indiana can’t believe what they are seeing!


























So that’s the way it is for this the 4th day of June 2009.
Later ECP’s



Go Brian, that's my Dog!


Are you sure they're Amish, and not just Mennonites? The two do get confused now and then.

Love your site, Tom! Your images are terrific!

Tom Patterson


Keep up the good work! I'm wondering about Brett, Josh and Huck (Team Cabeza de Carne) on NA Wall....any sign?

another great report

WHAT BRIDGE ARE YOU ON? I shall supply pizza and beer when I am in the valley!
As my good friend Beth did for you last season.
Please respond to dv.lindstrom@gmail.com

Amish and King Kobras

I like the 6er between the legs of the Father! I wish I were there!

Oh wait, Bob and I are going there tomorrow! Can't wait to absorb some culture...



Says thanks again.

Great Bridwell pic.


Clash of cultures!

Interesting shot of the technologically averse Amish viewing a technology intense sport being played out by people who are often just trying to 'get away' from it all. Awesome pics. Thanks!


Awesome Amish

Great pictures and fun stuff with the amish. Keep us posted about those climbers in the cave you mentioned yesterday.


Thanks for the correction on Jim's last route.
Tom Evans

Thanks for the fix

Keep dry!


Not Bridwell's last line Tom. He did Dark Star with Giovonni around 2002. It's over by Chinese Water Torture. Nice pics, as always. Cheers mate! Arrrrgggh!

No rain today!

Thanks for the awesome pictures and report! It actually looked sunny!


Hey Tom,

Maybe a bit late but awesome the reports are on a separate website. Really great stuff. Thanks.

greets from Holland, Niek

rhodo was here

The old-time family shot is priceless! And the old pirate... searching for faults in the clouds of delusion...pretty good portrait of the man as well.
Thanks Tom!


Great report. Thanks!
See you Saturday.
Jay and Jeanette


Thanks, Tom. I never noticed your "Black Cat" before......
Super pics!

SkullyAmbro...Mo,mo, yeah

Great report and I love the

Great report and I love the photo of the Amish family!
Thanks Tom.