ElCap Report 6/03/10

 

ElCap Report 6/03/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The fine weather continued today with some dark clouds building behind Half Dome, late in the day. Replacements are still needed, so Cubicle Pukes Unite!!!! Off to Yosemite with you all! There are a lot of climbers on a lot of routes these days but the most are still concentrated on the Salathe. So, you aspiring Noser’s have the route at your disposal….where are you?

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Ryan and Josh had the standard MOZ bivy at the top of the White Circle. They had most of the MOZ done by late morning and afternoon found them headed to Peanut Ledge. They could get off tonight if they went for it but would miss the great Peanut Ledge bivy, surely one of the most spectacular on the SE Face.

Trip: The pushers, Scott and Ben, got off at 3am and passed Bob and Oli sleeping on top. Both teams were down by 1pm today and enjoyed some time at the Bridge.

Aurora: She’s back…. Big Wall Kate is back, and climbing with the exceptional Kitty Calhoun, to do this, the eastern boundary of the Falcon closure area. Aurora is a steep, classic track up the SE Face. They were finishing the first pitch when I departed.

Mescalito: The Triple Trouble crew of Steve, Dave, and Eric hung out late in the morning at the Bow’s sloping ledge just 3 from the top. By the time I left they were getting close to the base of the last pitch and I assume are on top by now. FLASH!!   I am at breakfast and have just learned that Dave fell from the last pitch while Jumaring.  He is injured but ok and are being flown out as I type these words.  His wife and mom are traveling to see him at the hospital and will be taking home to recover.  Best wishes to you Dave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Staying late at the Bow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next to the last on Mescalito.

 

Tribal: Brian did make the bivy ledge at the start of the Carrot pitch last night and by late morning was leading the pitch. As I departed he had set the belay at the mid point. Looking good so far, Brian!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian starting the Carrot as the White Horse looks down at him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian at the belay mid Carrot.

 

Mark Hudon climbed smartly from Grape Race over to the Jardine Corner and then from the Nose to Tribal at the start of its’ third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark traversing to the Jardine corner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark making the Nose to Tribal traverse.

 

Nose: A couple of teams from yesterday were climbing from Camp 4 upward as I arrived this morning. A team of two from yesterday climbed from ECT (you saw them climbing to ECT on the Report yesterday) and were headed to the Great Roof late in the afternoon. A team of two came over on the 3D traverse late in the morning. A team of three French climbers climbed to Dolt by early afternoon and were on the way to ECT when I left.

Alex and Uli went on a run today to cut more time off the 3:45 they threw down last time. As Hondo was traversing off Dolt, Uli, who was leading just short of the Jardine start, took a plunge off the route. He went 70ft and was held by an old fixed pin which came very close to coming out. Alex was jerked off his holds and rocketed 15ft into the air. Uli had some abrasions on his left shoulder and a bump on the head but was otherwise uninjured. We always wondered what would happen if a loosely protected simulspeed climber took a fall and now we know. The man was pretty lucky and the boys are reevaluating the situation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alex and Uli talking it over after the fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The master, Eric Perlman, telling the boys how it is!

 

Muir: I assume the English team of Colin and Davis are the ones who emerged from the Traverse pitch and started the upper corners this afternoon. Nice climbing ahead boys!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“Oh shit, I forgot to put on my shoes” says the leader on the Muir.

 

There is also a solo on the route, Alex White from Kansas, but he left his kit above Mammoth and came down so as to give the two parties above him some space.

Pace Maker: Pete was out on the lead today and got another pitch done. He and Mark are maintaining a pretty neat Show up there and are of course in no rush to get up the route.

 

Salathe: This Mega Classic is drawing them in these days as the Nose languished in its shadow. Several teams were high on the route today with some going on the Freerider finish. I didn’t see any teams below the Spire today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liebacking to Sous le Toit ledge.

 

Out West: Well I went out there yesterday and unfortunately was detained by a Cobra late in the afternoon which required me to stay at the Bridge until closing time….. So I have no idea of what is happening out there.

In other news: Pretty quiet at the Bridge today as we are conserving our energy now that we are on short rations. We did get two beers today to get us through the hot part of the day…. Hell the temperatures soared into the mid 70’s slowing up all down!

Various teams of heroes came by the Bridge this after, just down from the Captain. Bob and Oliver spent the most time hanging around telling their story. It is always fun to just sit and listen to what people have to say about their experiences on the Captain. Good stuff! Congratulations to those who went after their dreams on ElCap!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bob and Oli, just down from the Trip, at the Bridge. Oh happy days!!!

 

So that’s the way it is on El Capitan on this the 3rd day of June, 2010.

Later, Tom

Nose speed record: hopefully

Nose speed record: hopefully nobody gets *really* hurt
this time around again. Big cheers for U&A for 2h37 minus a bit.
And may they invite the San Francisco Chronicle so that paper
learns that Hans is not the only climber from California (Just
kidding Hans, not your fault :-))

“Oh shit, I forgot to put on my shoes” says the leader on the Muir:
Best line of the week Tom.

Yo Thanks for the good update

Yo Thanks for the good update of the happenings on eLcAP. Good to see Bob and Oli climbed the trip, congrats man.

greets Niek (Holland)

Thank you so much for the

Thank you so much for the updates Tom.
Climbing Grain Silos in Kansas is FUN!
I know there are a lot of folks interested in Alex White on Muir.....His Mom and Dad.....His Grandma....and me, Uncle Mark.
Thanks Again.

Dave took the fall off

Dave took the fall off Mescalito and is doing okay. In pain, but not permanently damaged.
Thanks for the FLASH update.
Hope all is well on the bridge. I'll be sure to bring you libations (due to the current drought situation) when I make it down.

Tom: Your Pictures look

Tom:

Your Pictures look amazing! They seem to have even more detail and are more clear this season. Are you doing something different?

Thanks!

Mick -lowly cubicle puke.

THERE AIN'T NOTHIN' LIKE AN

THERE AIN'T NOTHIN' LIKE AN EL CAP SMILE

You have made it to the bridge, Tom hands over a cold one (despite serious shortages) and the world is a happy place!
Awesome set of pics especially Mark Hudon using a pendo to get to Tribal. Ah yes, the one bolt belay with the perfect crack
in the white rock.

Cheers,

Doug

Great pics Tom. Brian and

Great pics Tom.

Brian and Mark ... Cruising along so well. An inspiration.

Go Mark Hudon! "It is not

Go Mark Hudon!

"It is not because things are difficult that we do not dare...
...It is because we do not dare that they are difficult."

-John

I think I recognize a pig

I think I recognize a pig that I gave Hudon.

go Kitty, go!! Good luck! Ben

go Kitty, go!! Good luck!
Ben from Luxembourg

Many thanks, Tom. I don't

Many thanks, Tom.

I don't even need a photo, just having you mention them causes a smile. I'm glad I get to follow my husband while he's on the Nose. It just makes me realize what a generous thing you do for all of us -- the climbers and their followers (both on the ropes and on the ground).

Wife of one of the Frenchies (the tall one wearing an orange helmet)

Go the frenchies Go! aller

Go the frenchies Go!
aller les frenchies!
show us your french free
and Merci Tom, of course!

Thanks, Tom! Interesting that

Thanks, Tom!

Interesting that the abbreviation for Cubicle Pukes Unite is CPU.

Hey, that's the Xtremecat.

Hey, that's the Xtremecat. Right on, Bob.
Glad I tuned in. It's the Big Stone, after all.

Hey, that Hudon IS a badass, huh? Somebody throw Mark a MonkeyCall or Two, wouldja?
I'm outa range. (for now)
Skully

Sweet! Wow Alex and Uli went

Sweet! Wow Alex and Uli went for a ride...glad all turned out well for them :)
Congrats to Bob and Oli...way to go boys.

The Princess of the El Cap Bridge

Lucky for Sure Wow Hondo and

Lucky for Sure

Wow Hondo and Uli ought to play the Lottery they are very lucky these days

Russ

Tom, love your commentary and

Tom, love your commentary and play-by-play,
I've so thoroughly enjoyed the journey of all climbers over the past week. Your site is brilliant! I am thrilled to see the Mescalito trio on the final pitch (and presumably done now) but I'm sad that my reason for following along with you has "topped out". Great photos and commentary! I know I'll continue to follow the stories even though my climber will be off El Cap.
Congrats to all and carpe diem!

nice!

nice!