ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/03/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another great day for climbing on the Captain.  We had cloud cover all day long and for just a moment, at 2pm, it misted very briefly.  I don’t think the climbers on the Cap even knew it happened.  The Zodiac was the center of attention as the Nose and Salathe languished in disuse.  The weather continues to confound but not enforce.  The cool weather is a boon for water conservation and everyone seems to be headed up, not down.  So don’t be discouraged.  Even though the forecast is doom and gloom the reality is anything but.  I know some of you want to do the Nose and guess what?  The Nose is totally empty…. The Salathe is totally empty… The West side is completely empty.  Hell, what else can I do for you Pukes, I’ve cleared the whole SW Face of ElCap just for you, so show up or shut up!!

Today’s ElCap Report is brought to you by the Brits who are showing up in force.  Leo Holding and Andy Kirkpatrick cruised by and hung for a while at the fabled, ElCap Bridge.  Andy and his partner Paul were the speedy team on Zodiac a few days ago sending a one bivy ascent.  I only wish those guys could speak English so I could understand what the hell they are saying!!
Today’s ECR… all you have to do is read the thing… could I make it any easier???

Zodiac:  The boys from the SSPO bail last week, Gregor and Stephan, topped out today with a speedy two bivy ascent.  Nice climbing and great colors too.  These Euro’s know how to look good while getting the job done in good style.

1)  Cleaning the pitch above Peanut Ledge on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down were the two solo’s with Aza (?spelling? Someone help me out here!) climbing all the way to the start of the Nipple pitch today, before coming back to his kit at the top of the BT pitch.
2)  Aza heading into the White Circle on Zodiac. Notice the top of the Lightning Bolt Roofs to the left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian, the other solo, fresh from the NA Wall last week, climbed the Black Tower pitch and was headed to the White Circle as I left.
3)  The two lads met briefly, shook hands, and chatted a while on the ledge before Brian went higher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the team that fixed some yesterday bailed today.

Shortest Straw:  A team of three, Koreans I think, but maybe Japanese, climbed the first two today and made good progress.  They were brightly dressed and I am looking forward to seeing them do this seldom done route.
They were sporting a pretty hefty stick, but Asian climbers in general are much shorter than the Americans who have put up most of the routes, so we give them a pass on sticking most of the time. 
4)  Look there’s ECP’s, hide that stick!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Virginia to the Trip:  Leo and Pete are established on the route now after climbing two pitches.  They shredded a haul line in the hauling ratchet, and Leo came down for another rope and got to hang out at the bridge and have a beer before going back up the hill.  I have to say… Pete’s Junk Show is very well organized this time, unlike some of the monsters he has created in the past.
5)  Pete working the Show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Trip:  The pushers were gone when I arrived this morning… sweet!!  No bivy ascent!  Who were those guys?
A team of two climbed and hauled to three and may be higher now, as I departed with still a lot of the climbing day left.
6)  Leaving the belay at the top of two on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Climbing to the Sombrero at the end of the third pitch on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  Jordan and Adam are putting on a clinic on this early Porter, Burton, Sutton classic.  They were at the Molar traverse when I left and most likely are past it as I write these words.  Too bad I will miss shooting them on the Molar pendulum but they will be well past it when I see them again in the morning.  Looking good up there lads!!

Freerider:  I did see the team, who were working their way up the Salathe the past two days, take a hard left at the start of the famous Roof pitch, and head around the corner.  I hear they might be some of the Missouri crew who are infesting the Captain this season.

Blast from the Past. 
8)  I took this shot of Paul Sibley at the Glowering Spot, on the 5th day of our stormbound climb, on the Nose in May of 1971.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The ElCap shuttle bus is bringing an endless stream of Tournon to the Bridge.  They quickly become victims of my telescope and climbing instruction.  Many say it is the highlight of their trip to the valley, as they have always wondered about the climbing but never had a clue how it was done.  It does make a long day for me and somewhat limits where I can shoot from, but is worth the effort.  Today was sweet with its overcast all day.  This is best Spring I have seen for shooting EC climbers.
On the home front… word has leaked out that the boys in green are on to the “secret climbers cave”, located far up in Tenaya canyon, where supposedly, 45 climbers are residing.  Word is that Pinkie broke the story to the feds and may be promoted for her investigative prowess. 
Remember… Fear does the work of reason.
So that’s the way it is for this the 3rd day of June 2009.
Bye Bye
Tom