ElCap Report 6/02/10

 

ElCap Report 6/02/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Yep the weather is very cooperative these days. Not too hot and not too cold. A few high clouds in the afternoon. The Captain has informed me that the replacements are not coming in fast enough and I need to get a recruiting program going! So … Cubicle Pukes! Rise up from your cubicle’s and tell the boss you have a tax audit for the next few weeks and you will be unable to work, but expect to be paid, of course! Then come to Yosemite!! Ok? If not now, then when? It isn’t going to get much better for climbing than it is right now. Hello?!! Anyone there?!! I’m talking to you Puke!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Ryan and Josh are back on the route and were last seen finishing off the White Circle pitches today. I guess that new ledge is working fine for them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing the Nipple pitch on Zodiac, taken from way out west.  The climber took a plunge off the pitch a bit below where this photo captured him.

 

Trip: Bob and Oliver finished the last bolt ladder pitch and should be near the top as I type these lines. A dream come true for Bob… all his hard work and conditioning has paid off!

Lower down Scott Bennett and partner Ben Doyle are doing this route in a push. They have ZERO BAGS and will be going upward no matter what confronts them.

 

Mescalito: The Triple Threat did bivy on the spacious Bismarck Ledge last night and were dusting off the pitch above, when I arrived this morning. They are short fixing pitches now with a leader always out. They should top out tomorrow in the early afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving the Bismarck Ledge on Mescalito.

 

Tribal: Brian Sandowsky climbed faster today and had two pitches done by the time I departed with time for another. He could make the ledge at the start of the famous, Carrot Pitch, if he continues higher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last night’s bivy for Brian.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brian leading out on the 2nd pitch of the day for him.

 

Nose: Several parties are still on the route, including two teams of three and one team of two. All are moving up at reasonable speed and seem to be on routine ascents.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pitch to ElCap Tower on the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Follower and bags after the King Swing.

 

Grape Race to Tribal: Mark is almost up this seldom done variation of the Nose and will soon have the traverse to Tribal Rite and fall in line behind Brian. The man is always moving and I have yet to see a ledge deployed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark adjusting the freight high on Grape Race.

 

Pace Maker: Pete and Mark moved the Show up to the area that Mason and Brad were using, until they went down today, as the conditions were too wet to continue free climbing at a high standard.

 

Salathe: Several parties are strung out along this, the most popular route on the rock at the moment. The YOSAR crew went down late in the evening yesterday after collecting all the equipment that was left from the Spire rescue. Several teams of three are on the route and a couple of teams of two. I can’t keep track of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Original pitch above the Ear on the Salathe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pitch to Sous le Toit Ledge on the Salathe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The famous “Block” above the nasty pitch to it on the Salathe.

 

Dihedral: I did finally get out west to see this team in hopes that they were not too high. Unfortunately they are making rapid progress and I have missed most of the climb… sorry lads. They are above the Flake and heading toward the Black Cave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ian Jewel leading the pitch above the Flake on the Dihedral Wall, while partner Alex hauls the bags.

 

Out west: I did see a couple of parties heading up the Muir pitches above Mammoth Terraces. One is most likely going to the Shield and the other is on the Muir I think and may be Colin and Davis from the UK.

 

In other news: Pretty quiet at the Bridge today. The victorious teams from the past few days have continued to bask in the glory of their triumphs!! However, they are not coming forth with the required carbon based refreshments and the supply sergeant tells me we have reached critical shortages. So…. If you happen by the Bridge…. Beware or be packing supplies!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dog days at the Bridge.  Mason and Brad leaning on the railing.

So that’s the way it is for this the 2nd day of June, 2010.

Later Tom

That is David T's dog Obi. I

That is David T's dog Obi. I will be watching for him on Salathe today. - His Dad.

Hi Tom, I look forward to

Hi Tom, I look forward to your Muir Wall report. I'm thinking they are probably a few pitches past mammoth terrace.

Thanks for your efforts Tom.

Thanks for your efforts Tom. I got a sixer coming your way in about 2 weeks!

Nice work Tom- looks like the

Nice work Tom- looks like the weather down there so fine!

Pate

Tom, good seeing you

Tom, good seeing you yesterday. Even better talking about your GTO!

Kim

I don't have a cubicle, I

I don't have a cubicle, I have my own office. Thanks for the report Tom.

The evil one

Tom! I had beers for your

Tom! I had beers for your supply on Tuesday, they are sitting on my table now, we were too slow to return and missed you. 2 are for Steven as well. We will bring them by on Sunday if we can make it in time!

Dave

Ha ha! Everyone else(?)

Ha ha!
Everyone else(?) Yowza!
Skully
PS. Hello, Your Majesty(?), your excellency? Your Grace?
I'm not very polished talking(typing) to Royalty, or really very polished at all!
Just another tarnished Skull. Salut'!

I was not calling you a puke,

I was not calling you a puke, I was calling everyone else a puke!

Stop calling me Puke!

Stop calling me Puke!

WooHoo a Skully

WooHoo a Skully posting!
Thanks Tom for a great report:) Bob is getting it done!
A crisis at the bridge...no cobra...tell me it ain't so!

The Princess :)

Nice shots from out West Tom!

Nice shots from out West Tom! I like the new angle on the Nose.

Go Brian on TR! My partner on ZM, Brian is as solid as they come. He also is roughing out a bum ankle/heel that he smashed this winter. Props!

Some of the best big wall

Some of the best big wall pics ever, Tom.

Mark H looks great out there. the "junk show" all tidied up. Badass!

Yeah, Tribal Grape! or Race

Yeah, Tribal Grape! or Race Rite(?) or Grape Rite. Tribal Race, maybe?
I like Tribal Grape, myself.
Rage on, Mark! WooHoo!
Take care, there, Tom.

Oh, yeah. I'm still Skully,

Oh, yeah. I'm still Skully, yer Captain.Avast there, ya lubber!
yaaarrrr.

Critical shortages of

Critical shortages of supplies! I would never let that happen if I was there, but sadly I am icing my knee post surgery. Swelling is coming down nicely. I should be back in the saddle soon. Amazing to hear Bob is close to topping out on the Trip. Please give us a hero shot of him at the bridge when he gets down. Well earned indeed.

Cheers,

Doug

Some really nice shots

Some really nice shots today

Bob gets it done, A Push on The Trip way cool, Hudon hard Core what more could you ask for

Russ

Appreciate the pics of the

Appreciate the pics of the three on Mescalito... Awesome pics of many of the groups. Thanks for what you do.

Dave's Mom

Thank you Tom for keeping the

Thank you Tom for keeping the Eye on the Show.

GO MARK HUDON!

-John