ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/01/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Another sweet day in the books. High clouds kept the temps cool and a stiff wind was more of a nuisance than a hindrance. There are lots of climbers to see but most are getting to the top in the next day or so. We need fresh meat for the Captain, so get out of that domicile and get your sorry Puke butt here, where the action is. The traffic has returned to normal, which is not so bad in the summer, and the Lodge Pool is open!! Convenient showers for smelly old Tom!!

Here it is ..Today’s ElCap Report.. Written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: I saw Scott Bennett, the solo from yesterday, climbing above Peanut Ledge this morning. He reached the top around 11am. I talked to him this afternoon and he loved the route! He felt pretty cooked by 10pm last night so laid up on Peanut Ledge until morning. He had carried a small sleeping bag which paid off big!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Scott at the belay above Peanut Ledge.

Lower down the two man team from yesterday, Ryan and Josh, rapped last evening, as their Ledge broke. They decided to go down for another one. They were back on the route by afternoon with a new ledge.

Trip: Old Bob and young Oliver are putting the pitches behind them in a steady line. Two more days should find them at the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Bob catching the last light on the Trip.

Mescalito: The Mescalito Three, Steve, Dave, and Eric are moving up the center of the route now and are encamped for the night at the famous and fabulous, Bismarck Ledge, surely one of the best respites on the Captain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Morning on Mescalito, heading for a late day landing on the Bismarck Ledge.

Tribal: Brian spent the night on the top of the Boot Flake and slept in pretty late. He was on the climb by mid afternoon and got sort of lost for a time but then back tracked a bit and found the line again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Brian in the business, up high, on the Captain.

Nose: The route continues to pack them in like free drinks at happy hour. The teams from yesterday that were high on the wall either topped out late or finished today. Hondo and Uli made another training run up the route in the morning. I don’t know their time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

King Swinging lads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

A large gathering of Poser Pukes assembled on Sickle to make bailing plans.

A team of three climbed from Dolt to ECT and on to the KS in the late afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Riding the Pig off Dolt Tower.

Bob and Ambrose made it down today along with lots of others who topped out last evening, including Stefan and Gerda from Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Heroes of ElCap, Ambrose and Bob, just down from the Nose.

A team of two climbed to Dolt for exercise this morning.

Grape Race to Tribal: Mark continues to grind his kit into powder up one of the longest slabs on the planet. He is moving along well enough but I would guess he would trade for the Right side of ECT in a heartbeat!  Mark is one tough and inspired climber and will no doubt get this thing done and have a great time too!!  Go Bro!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Mark and his Junk Show. Watch out PTPP you have competition!

Mason Direct: The lads were out working the “free” section above the Heart, which doesn’t look too free from where I sit!

Pace Maker: Pete lead the pitch out of the jungle and around the corner to rivets and clean rock this afternoon. They are still below Mason and Brad but should encounter them tomorrow, or maybe by early next week!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Pete in the clear while a team of YOSAR Pukes climb off the Ear to retrieve stuff left by the recent rescue off the Spire.

Salathe: I did see a mass assault on the route above the Hollow Flake today. YOSAR sent a crew up to get the stuff they had to leave after the recent rescue. Walker went along and lead the Monster Crack to get the team to the Alcove. The lad look pretty smooth on the thing too… thin as a rail, is he. Try that shit in my body and see what happens!

A team of two came down from pretty high up on the route complaining about wet conditions…. So they are the….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

BAIL OF THE DAAAAYY!!

Out west: There must be things going on out there on the Dihedral, Muir, The Fear, etc… but I just haven’t had the time or energy to get my stuff packed early and head out there… tomorrow??

In other news:  Various Heroes of ElCap hung at the Bridge basking in the glory of their recent ascents. Junk food and Cobras set a festive mood for the afternoon. Dave and Adam, just down from New Dawn, came by.   Several other climbers and a modest number of Tourons happened by too. Kenny Yager lead the years first “History of Yosemite Climbing” Tram Tour today. He has high hopes that this specialty tour will draw some interest.

On a personal note, today would be the 70th wedding anniversary of my wonderful parents, Margaret and Murray Evans. They have long since passed on, but I remember them with great love and affection on this, their special day. They are deeply missed and I will always keep the pain of their passing within me.

So that’s the way it is for this the 1^st Day of June, 2010.

Later, Tom