ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/1/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Wow, two nice days in a row for climbing on the big stone!!  The crews have responded by heading up on the routes.  Three parties now on Zodiac, one on Virginia, 7 on the Nose, one on Mescalito, the old dads on the PO,  a team fixed on the NA, one on the Shield, and some more staging on the Salathe.  I think everyone is sick of just sitting around when it only rains a few minutes of the day.  It was great for the photography as the high clouds kept the shadows off the Captain and I could get all the rock details and climbers, normally deep shadows… Sweet!!
So put the kids to bed, tell the spouse you will be there in a minute, turn up some favorite tunes and settle down for today’s report.  The ECR is brought to you by Heinz Zak, noted photographer and climber who told me years ago to ditch the telescopes and buy some big glass… boy was he right!  Thanks Heinz!!

Zodiac:  Three teams have ponied up for this route, one of the best on the Captian.  I almost missed the push team, Andy Kirkpatrick and Paul Tattersal, although they are dressed in orange and red.  They were spotted in the white circle and pointed out to me.  They are moving along but seemed to sputter on the long pitch to the Nipple.  Long night ahead boys!
Lower down a team that fixed yesterday climbed smartly and were last seen leading the infamous Black Tower pitch.
Steppin off the Black Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lowest down is a team of two fixing to the top of two.  They were short fixing when I got this shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Virginia to the Trip:  I did catch a glimpse of Pete as he just cleared the trees late in the afternoon on the first pitch.  He and Leo blasted from the bridge around 1pm after hanging around to revel in the glory of talking to the Tourons there.

SSPO:  The old dads were seen climbing toward the High Brow bivy ledge late in the day… I’m betting they will be off tomorrow late in the afternoon.
Old Dads in the Aleutian Chain on the PO Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The Nose was pretty busy today with no less than three NIAD’s in progress.  The lead party was on the Great Roof when I showed up and were past the Glowering Spot when I left.
NIAD Colorado Scott’s sticking it to the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Andrew from Tasmania and Armin from Germany came across the 3D traverse and joined the line at C4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were other teams in the Stovelegs and a late in the day NIAD that free climbed up everything at a blistering pace.  They lunged for the KS and got it on the first go.
Lunging on the KS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Earlier in the day another NIAD did the double swing by back cleaning down the Boot but the second couldn’t quite pull it off so got some assistance by his partner at just the right moment.
Helping out on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The two guys taking all the chances yesterday are still alive and well and after a Grey Ledges bivy were headed up the Great Roof as I left.

Shield:  I know a party is on the Shield approach but I couldn’t see them past the Muir corners up to Grey.

Free blast Salathe:  I saw Leo Holding on the free blast and hear he is recovering from injuries earlier in the year.  Nice green shirt Leo!
I did see a team on lung ledge getting stuff settled for a run at the Salathe.

Blast from the Past:
Tom Evans doing the King Swing in 1971 on the 33rd ascent of the Nose.  Could that really be me?  So long ago, so long ago....Partner Paul Sibley took the shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Lots of Tourons around the Bridge today and it feels like I talked all day long.  Some of the Monkeys spelled me to help out.  Heinz Zak and Dean Potter came by for a few words and pics.  Donny and his partner, Zak were by after coming off the tower when Zak took and 8ft Daisy fall… not nice… broken ribs?  Mike Ousley and EE headed home as they ran out of time and interest on Tempest.  The crew from Springfield MO hung out for a while.  I lived for several years just out side of town in a little place called Aurora… small world!
It is nice to see the monkeys out on the rocks again and while the forecast is not the best it is still cool and cloudy making for some great conditions.  Not typical early June but quite useable.
So that’s the way it is for this the first day of June 2009, my parents 69 wedding anniversary.  I wish they were alive to see it… here’s to you Mom and Dad, gone many years now but still alive in my heart…
Later Tom