ElCap Report 5/30/13

ElCap Report 5/30/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather keeps getting better and better and we are loving it!  Still not very many climbers on the climbs.  In fact the SE Face still has only one party on it and they are the invisible ranger team, so you can’t even see them!  The King is getting some action as is the Salathe.  Everything else awaits your presence.  I’m kinda rushed as I am doing laundry at the same time I am writing this …so ….

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!!

Zodiac:  I did see a team working the first pitch today but they didn’t look very serious.

Tangerine Trip:  The ranger team of Bellino and Pope moved well up the center of the route today and could be off late tomorrow.  I tried to point them out to people who wanted to see a team of actual rangers on the rock.  Unfortunately, no matter how I tried to explain their location no one actually saw them!

1)   What can I say?  The poop bag is still the best thing in the group!


























Nose:  The lead team from yesterday, Edwin Sheppard and Asher March, continued to move with speed and were past the King Swing when I arrived at 9am.  They were headed into Camp 5 when I departed at 3pm.

2)  Speeding along above the Tan Band and doing some nice free climbing along the way!


























3)  They hit the Great Roof just after noon and free climbed the first part of Pancake Flake.


























The so called “British team” climbed over the top early this afternoon.  I have to hand it to that crew… they were not among the best teams of the Spring but they were the most determined!

4)  Brits, wanting a shower, pizza, and a cold beer, but first had to do the last pitch, which went without a hitch.

























Several teams have launched from Sickle Ledge today in hopes of securing their spot in the line.  Two teams moved well up the Stovelegs, one of whom made ECT in the early afternoon. 

5)  Here they are heading toward Dolt, and showing their respect for the Cap with an ElCap salute!

























6)  Over on Sickle Ledge, the masses have assembled.  It seems to have come into vogue these days to haul huge loads up the Nose.  COME ON MAN!!  Is that much kit really necessary?  The big loads can do you in up there.

























PreMuir:  This team is fixed to Grey Ledges, and have been off the rock for several days.  I looked, but couldn’t find them again today.

Salathe:  Three teams are on the route at the moment, two being below the Ear today.  A team from yesterday was climbing to the Block as I left.

7)  Stacking line a couple above Hollow Flake Ledge this afternoon.
























8)  Never Never Land:  Kenny and Dillon, climbed rapidly up the middle section and got some refuge in some shady corners in the heat of the afternoon. 


























West Buttress:  I did see the Protestors out there around the top of the 4th pitch this afternoon, after a late morning of loafing

around the bivy.  The light there was poor all day and I have no shots for you today.

9)  Lurking Fear:  Now don’t get your shorts in a bunch… you know I never shoot that route because most of it is out of view above the 3rd pitch.  But I talked to three NFG’s who were hoofing out there and told them I would get a shot or two if

possible.  Don’t expect to ever see another shot of the route!

























10)  I have become such a celebrity among the readers of the Report, that fans often come to the Bridge to greet me in the morning.  This morning I was greeted, as I walked to the Bridge, by three lovely young women, who seemed to hold me in great reguard!
























In other news:  Jim Donini stopped by the Bridge for a quick visit and chat today.  He said George was out of vacation time so can’t go back up on the Nose.  However, Jim has found a partner, from his adventures in Patagonia, with whom to do the route.  He wants that NIAD!!  He would become the oldest person, by about a thousand years, to climb the Nose in a Day, if all goes as planned.  I will keep you posted.

Mark Hudon, and his cast of thousands, will soon arrive in the Valley to try to squeeze in 32 ElCap routes in the space to two weeks.  We await the carnage!

The Extreme Team Riders, a very popular crew of climbers, from South Korea, will be arriving on June 4th.  I.C. Kang will be the Sadar of this well trained group.

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 30th day of May, 2013.

Later, Tom




Ratical and Toadally awesome.

I have been enjoying all the reports. It is such a nice way to enjoy some coffee, or relieve some anticipatory stress before my evening work shift. Not to mention the valley stoke! Thank you very much!!!

Truely Unique

Thanks Tom for the shots and to storyline.

Love the pancake flake shot up topish and the lurking fear shot is great too.



Nice report Tom. Sounds like

Nice report Tom. Sounds like you will soon be drinking Hood River coffee and talking with Mark Huge one. Let the radness continue.

British Bulldog Spirit

Congratulations to the three Brits. Well done! We are all looking forward to hearing all about it when you get back. We will buy the beers of course.

Thanks too!

Really appreciate all the effort that you put in to give those of us far away regular updates on the action. Photos and commentary have been read with keen anticipation. Wondereful to see that the most determined team were justly rewarded with success. Huge congratulations to the 3 Brits (2 Welshmen and a kiwi) and to all the other climbers who make your site such a huge success. Thank you


Thanks for the updates Tom, been good to read about my friends the british team of 3 (Technically 2 Welsh and a Kiwi). Glad they have made it to the top. Well done boys, happy you have made it. Determination is the key......No surrender.

I love me some ECR!

Thanks for another great report Tom. I'll be in Hudon's cast of thousands, climbing the lowly Lurking Fear in early June. We're bringin mullets and loud colored clothes for you. Maybe you'll stoop to just a couple shots of us if the timing and light are just right......or maybe just a mention in your report. It will make us rich and famous and popular beyond our dreams. Please consider just a few lines so our ascent will have merit among the laptop masses. See you around. Scott Jett. Micronut. Over and out.

How Many Hudon Routes On El Cap?

Tom - Did I get that right. Mark Hudon is going to do 32 routes on El Cap in 2 weeks?
From Tom... Read the disclaimer on the home page!!!