ElCap Report 5/30/10

ElCap Report 5/30/10

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Whoa Dude… very nice weather we are having now here in the Valley of your dreams. Sunny and warm for the foreseeable future. Climbs are being done on every face of the rock, with the exception of the far east side of the SE Face, which is still influenced by Horsetail Falls. I am at the Bridge as I write these words because there is no way I am going “into town” with the traffic messed up in a way that only professionals can do.

So direct from my vantage point here at the Bridge…

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… Unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Stefan and Gerda climbed the Black Tower pitch as I arrived and are setting up their Ledge at the start of the Mark of Zorro pitch as I write these lines. They are moving right along with Stefan taking most of the harder leads. I think they are in for the night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stefan leading the center pitch of the White Circle.

ZM: The old German Dudes are moving along faster today and are just finishing the Arch pitch leading to the ending slabs. They should be off tomorrow evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Markus in the shit high on ZM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool looking belay on ZM.

 

Trip: The speedy German team is about to get to the first bolt ladder and should bivy in the vicinity of the second one…. These guys are pretty fast!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

German team belay high on the Trip.

 

Lower down: Bob and Oliver showed up today and jugged the mile to the start of the 5th pitch. Bob got that lead and spent some time on it including what looked like a 25 foot fall off the middle of the pitch. As I type these lines I am looking up at them and see Oliver leading the next pitch. So it looks like old Bob just might get his ElCap ascent if all goes as planned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bob leading the 5th on the Trip.

 

Mescalito: These guys are in full afternoon shade now… so I need to take a look and see where they are…. “I’ll be back”…OK… they are at the end of the long right leaning corner that defines the lower regions of this classic track. I assume they will climb to or fix to the pendulum pitch this evening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing the long corner on the lower part of the route.

 

New Dawn: Looking up I can just see the lads half way across the traverse to the long corner leading to the Dawn Roof. They spent the night on Wino Tower and are going to climb off tomorrow… Speedy team, this.

Tribal: I didn’t see Brian in the corners around LLL today but have just spotted him a couple pitches below ElCap Tower… those corners can hide an elephant!

Lower down I expect to see Mark Hudon, who left for the route this morning, climbing above the trees and thus into my view. It should be interesting to watch this highly motivated “old timer” solo climb this great route.

The Nose: So many parties, so many pictures, so much clusterfuck. Anyway most of the teams are now above ECT and the lower reaches of the route are for the most part empty. Tomorrow will undoubtedly bring fresh meat into the grinder! There are at least 8 parties on the route and it is impossible to keep track of individuals. But none have bailed today so if your interest is on the route then they are doing ok so far!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Helping hands on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heavy traffic in the Grey Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pancake Flake late in the day.

Pace Maker: I did see PTPP out on lead in a wonderful red outfit. Normally when he climbs with various partners he is not often seen leading but now he has a friend with him and thus is getting to do most of the leading.

Heart Left to Golden Gate: Mason and Brad are above the Heart now and in a really sweet looking corner. The climbing looks like thin fingers and smooth feet! Progress is being made!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mason working the corner above the ledge.

 

Salathe: I do see three teams on this route with none taking the Monster variation. Two are at the Alcove right now and one team is cleaning the long pitch above the Ear. Looks really wet higher up.

Out West: I didn’t get out west as the Bridge was so jammed all day, but hear there is a team on Never Never Land. However, I just looked over that way and didn’t see anyone.

In other news: I am here at the Bridge late today so I can get to town behind all the bad traffic. So this will most likely be a late posting for the ECR. One more day of this madness!

So that’s the way it is for this the 30th day of May, 2010.

Fresh from the scene, your man at the Bridge, ElCap Pics… out of here.

Go Gerda and Stefan (and all

Go Gerda and Stefan (and all the teams up there)!
Thank you Tom for the pictures. It's great to be able to come to this site and see the action on El Cap.
I hope I can do it one day -maybe next year when this ligament in my hand heals up
Ali

Fantastic

Fantastic pictures.Interesting information.Great site.Thanks

Great to see Bob up on the

Great to see Bob up on the Trip. In a day or two we'll know for sure that he is on the way to scoring an El Cap route experience.
The German dudes have almost sent ZM, good job boyz. Awesome pics as always. I've got an idea with the Memorial Day traffic problems. Just sent the posse up valley and get rid of the professionals. : )

Regardless of what country we are from, lets remember the men and women who serve in the military. Today is their day.

Sincerely,

Doug Pratt-Johnson

Tom, Thanks for the great

Tom,
Thanks for the great pics and info. I'm following the trio on Mescalito and really enjoyed seeing the picture and update. Go Steve, Dave, and Eric! Carpe diem!

Thanks Tom Thanks Tom Verry

Thanks Tom

Thanks Tom Verry nice pictures from Zodiac
and the other routes.
Who is my brother John he is the friend from
Stefan and Gerda????

Cheering for Bob! Love the

Cheering for Bob! Love the King swing pic...clusterf*ck and all!
You are the man Tom! Thanks for making my evening :)

The Princess of the El Cap Bridge

Thanks to You Tom Our Man on

Thanks to You Tom
Our Man on the scene

Russ