ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/30/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… special day here at the gateway to adventure.  Several old timers and young hot dogs were around today for interviews with the Autry Museum staff for the exhibit being prepared there under the auspices of the Yosemite Climbing Association.  Nice weather for shooting with moderate cloud cover until there was a ripping thunderstorm and torrential down pour!  Seems as though there is a low pressure from down south to the east of us and it is sending lots of moisture our way.  These are not the normal, causal showers we come to expect at this time of year… so…. If you are thinking of a run at the Captain be warned.

1)  Here comes the rain!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South East face climbs, for the most part,  are rain free due to steepness.  At the moment the SW face and the Nose are getting most of the attention.  We had three periods of hard rain today but now, as I write these words at 7pm, the sky is pretty clear.  Anyway… today’s report is brought to you by the legends of Yosemite who showed up today at the bridge… Tom Frost, Glen Denny, Peter Hann, Cybelle Hectel Ken Yager,… and the young hot dogs like Dean Potter and Alex Honnold.
Today’s Report right now….

NA Wall:  I looked for these Dudes and they were not there… so… over the top before the storm I suppose… Sweet!!

SSPO:  The old dads are putting the pitches behind them and are now in the Bering Straits headed to the Island of the Sky.  They are a proficient crew and know how to dress too… Orange and Red… with age comes wisdom!!
2)  Heading to the Bearing Straits on the Pacific Ocean Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tribal rite:  Ian and Pierre were spotted this morning headed to the top and when the storm hit they were leading the last pitch…. Mmmm …. Arriving at the top of the Cap in the middle of a horrendous thunder and lightning storm… is that recommended?

Nose:  Two teams were spotted on NIADs.  The lead team is a Korean team which moved right along and was climbing to camp 5 when the sky unloaded on them. 
3)   NIAD team climbing in the downpour to camp 5 on the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The other team was a bit slower and were on the Great Roof when the rains came.  Lower down two teams were seen climbing to ECT where they settled in during the storm and are probably in for the night.
4)  High steppin above Dolt Tower before the storm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Lower down yet a French team was spotted lined up on Sickle ledge….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3D  I did see a team come across the traverse from the Muir but lost sight of them after the storm ended.

Shield:  The lead team of these two was seen climbing to Chiefton ledge and the lower one was on the open face below Chickenhead ledge and must have gotten hosed pretty bad.  Another party set out for the route but were bombed by the storm and returned to the relative shelter of the bridge.

Blast from the Past: 
6)  Legendary Yosemite dirt bag, Tucker Tech high on the Muir when we did it in 1989.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Steve and Mimi’s wedding drew a lot of the legends of Yosemite to it this afternoon in spite of the threatening weather.  Big party going on in El Portal as I write this.   Many parties are ready to go on the Cap but are afraid of the weather… well… maybe… just maybe… they are right this time… it might not be the time to go all in on some of the routes.  I still think these 10 minute blow outs are not enough to keep “real climbers” from going on the routes … but that said… I wouldn’t want to be up there when the shit hit’s the fan.
7))  At the Bridge… the real star is my 800mm lens!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Peter Haan, Glen Denny, Ken Yager, Dean Potter blocking traffic at the bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this the 30th day of May 2009.
Remember:  Even a fool was young once.
Bye … Ansel Evans