ElCap Report 5/29/13

ElCap Report 5/29/13
By Tom Evans
Yo..  Beautiful day here in Yosemite. Funny thing is that at 3:30am I heard the pitter patter of rain on the fly of my tent, and it continued on and off until after dawn. As a result, climbers who got up at 5 to get an early start on the Captain went back to bed, figuring the day was lost. Not the case as it cleared off by 6 and turned out to be just perfect for climbing. Interesting action on the South East Face of ElCap today… read about it below.
Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: The route had a German team bivy on top of the first pitch last night. I watched them take several hours to lead and haul the 2nd. After some reflection, they bailed…..So….
1)  Congratulations German Team…. BAIL OF THE DAY!!
Zenyatta Mondatta: Matt has been rather lethargic of late and seems to be tired a lot. Valley Sickness I call it. As a result, he decided to abandon the route until such time as his health returns…. So….
2) Congratulations Matt Thomsen…. BAIL OF THE DAY!!
Tangerine Trip: The O’Neill Rogues Show, fixed to the top of four yesterday but had a mutiny among the crew…. So….
3) Congratulations Sean O’Neill’s Rogue crew…. BAIL OF THE DAY!!
Higher up the Ranger team, who jumped a couple of O’Neill’s lines to get away from the show, was spotted on the 6th
pitch. Unfortunately for the lads, they are without the slightest sense of style, and got their clothing for
the climb from the big dumpster behind YOSAR. Chris Bellino and Dave Pope both have lovely wives who
always look sharply dressed. Hello? Hello!!  Women take charge of your men please!!... So….
4) Chris at the belay at the end of the 5th pitch.
5) Chris leading while Dave tends the belay at the start of the 7th pitch. When your poop bag looks better than
you do, you know you have a clothing disorder!
The Nose Route: The grand old man of ElCap is pretty empty at the moment.
The Brits,(actually 2 Welshmen and a Kiwi) who have been plowing their way up the route, are still at it. I last spotted them at Camp 6 this afternoon and it will be another day before they top out. Tenacity and determination? These boys have it in spades and will be justly rewarded in a day or so!
6) The crew at Camp 5 this morning. MOST DETERMINED TEAM OF THE DAY!
Lower down, one team broke for the Legs this morning and moved smartly along. I think I told, Edwin Sheppard and Asher March, the day before the storm, to get fixing! They did and are now far in front of the masses, congregating below.      
7) Alone in the Stovelegs! SMARTEST TEAM OF THE DAY!!
Salathe: Out to the west I could barely make out the two man team heading for the Ear. 
8) Salathe team…. MOST OBSCURE TEAM OF THE DAY!!
Never Never Land: I could see this team very well but never seemed to get a good shot of them. Sorry guys, no shot of you on the report.
Higher, a solo woman climbed off the route today, after a nice climb.
9) As I am a bit short of shots today, I included this one of sunset on Half Dome, I shot a few days ago.
10) Volcanoes in the massive Haleakala Crater, on Maui.
In other news: Madaleine Sorkin and Joe Mills have dedicated their climb of the Premuir to Mason Robison and have a site set up for donations that you should really give your attention to.
I didn’t get out west to see how Pete and the show are moving along on the West Buttress… so, maybe tomorrow Pete!
Today is the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt Everest by the British team, under the leadership of Sir
John Hunt. Summit team was, of course, Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay. Remembering them on this day!
So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 29th day of May, 2013.
11) Signing off for today, Telephoto Tom!  PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE DAY!!

I count 2 bails of the day

They were dropping like flys on the 29th, huh?

Great shot of you, Tom!

Can't wait to get to El Bridge!
It feels like I'm there right now!!

Sweetest El Cap Report of the Day!

Thanks Tom,

More great photos and stories. Is there some medication I can take to avert a bail?


Worst dress is last photo!!!!

The man in that last photo, with the huge tele..... is THAT THE GUY who is giving clothing/dress tips???? ;)

Worlds greatest website, and

Worlds greatest website, and some of the best photos ever. This place is great.

Following you!

Following two guys from Costa Rica who are climbing there right now. I hope you will spot them and bring me news about them! Your photos and comments are outstanding!!!


Thanks Tom for all you do and for the report -- LOTS of bails. See you in the fall.



I'll bet there are scores of "scurvy pukes" out there who scroll and pause through Tom's pictures, completely unaware of the killer narrative. You provide me with a laugh a day, Tom, and I'm grateful. Waiting with baited breath for this season's ...STICK OF THE DAY!!!!


You Da Man! Mark

You Da Man!


Great report and photos,

Great report and photos, Tom!!! Covering all the action. The one and only El Cap report.