ElCap Report 5/28/09

ElCap Report 5/28/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well it was really nice today… lots of clouds to keep the sun off the Captain and make my shooting so nice!!  Right up until the pouring rain at about 1:13 pm.  But as advertised in previous reports these summer storms are just a quick flash and then they are gone.  This one was pretty hard but was over in 8 minutes 46 seconds.  Then the storm blew out and everyone started climbing again, with the exception of the guys on the Shield and South Seas, as they don’t get rain on the part of the route they were climbing at the time.  Late this evening another storm came up but went off to the west without depositing any rain.  Everyone climbed on and we got the pollen washed out of the air!
So it is on and you need to be here to get it on with the rest of the Big Wall Pukes.
Today’s report is brought by the clouds blocking out the sun so I could get killer shots of the climbers on the Captain today!!  CLOUDS!!!  We love you!!
Today’s ElCap Report…

NA Wall:  These Brian and John are getting it done in the best of style.  They bivied at the classic hang below the “most spectacular lead in American climbing”.  The pitch that the great Chuck Pratt lead on the first ascent… the Roof pitch.  It went well and they were soon cleaning it and on their way to the ledge at the Cyclops eye for the night.
1)  Roof pitch, NA Wall



























2)  South Seas to PO:  The team of Marc and Markus are moving right along on this best start to the PO.  I hope they slow down a little so I can shoot them on the Sharks Fin tomorrow morning.
Belay on South Seas.




























3)  Climbing the 5th pitch on South Seas.



























Tribal Rite:  Man these guys, Ian and Pierre, are putting on a clinic for sure.  I got there this morning just in time to see them finish the Carrot pitch and then head up three more by days end.  They are taking only 5 to 10 minutes at the change overs!!  Plus they are climbing in some super duper features.  Right on Dudes!!
4)  Carrot pitch belay Tribal Rite

























5)  Ian leading high on Tribal Rite.




























Nose:  Seems like teams of three are the order of the day on this historic route.  One team of three was heading above C5 when I left today as another was heading toward C4.  This team is the “Red Team”.  All are wearing red shirts!!  Finally a team in the know!  I didn’t see anyone in the Legs but did see several people on Sickle ledge staging for a start in the morning.

Shield:  Ah Yes!!!  Both teams mentioned yesterday are on the route now, a pitch apart and moving up smartly.  Nice to see so many teams on this super classic Porter route.
6)  Climbing to the start of the infamous Groove pitch on the Shield.





























Sunkist:  Charlie and Trevor… where the hell are you dudes?  I have looked for two days on the route and you are not there.  Someone reported a bag up on the start of the Mushroom that I guess is yours… also no human remains have been found at the base so I know you guys are all right but maybe hiding out …. Afraid of the Walk of Shame?  Inquiring minds want to know!!
Salathe:  All the traffic is up high on this route in parties of two… I think I saw three teams getting up or onto the Headwall today.

Blast from the Past.
7)  The remarkable Chuck Pratt in a 1967 pic I took of him on my first Yosemite visit.
























In other news:  In spite of a brief shower the bridge saw a lot of traffic both in Tourons and climbers.  Steve Grossman and fiancé Mimi came by for a short time getting arrangements for their wedding this weekend.  I saw the "Big three Steves" today... Gerberding, Schneider, Grossman.. at or around the bridge.  They are some heavy hitters those boys.  The regular crew of Bridge rats were on hand and spend a couple of hours setting up a slack line over the river only to have it pop when the first man got on it!

8)  The brief storm at the Bridge this afternoon.























So that’s the way it is for this the 28th day of May 2009.
Bye Bye ECP’s


Tom, thanks for all the great reports. I always read em. Much appreciated, Atchafalaya

Like you said....

These shots need to be made into posters!!!!


i wish i was there! thanks for the pix.

That pic of the rain coming down at the bridge................

really does bring me to the valley. Feels like I'm standing there. I love that pic of Chuck Pratt and the fact that you took it Tom. Fantastic!



you are keeping the cubicle rats satsified

Thanks Tom

NA Wall

That looks like my friend Bryan that I climbed Zenyatta with last year. Go Bryan!

Nice plug for Chuck Pratt along with the great pic of the "hardest lead in North America!" That is a wild pitch.


Chuck Pratt

loved the picture of Chuck Pratt. Such sartorial elegance!


these reports never get old! thanks tom!


Thanks Tom!

Thanks, Tom, I love the El Cap pics.

Mark Hudon


Rain rain go away... come back again in a week.

Great report!

Really nice cadence to your

Really nice cadence to your narrative - good story telling. Pics look fantastic as usual - but your last shot of the rainy bridge - man...that one actually puts me the Valley! Good job!!

Regretting being far from the storm in Yosemite - RickyD