ElCap Report 5/25/10

 

ElCap Report 5/25/10

By Tom Evans             

Yo… Today was supposed to be the stormy one and it was really nice all day long. Sunny and warm until 3pm and now cloudy but nice. Like Bobby D said … “you don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows.” Anyway, storms are expected tonight and tomorrow and then the forecast looks good for a while. It was a slow day on the Captain as most of the prospective Wall Rats are cowering, in fear in the Café, at the very mention of the word, precipitation! So without further adieu….
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The two Spanish guys from yesterday bivied at the top of the MOZ and were up early and climbing. By the time I departed around 3 they were on the last pitch! A nice 2 and ½ day ascent with one bivy I think.  Santiago and Marco, Spanish climbers smoking up the Zodiac!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early morning at the belay above the Mark of Zorro on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First light on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pitch above Peanut Ledge on Zodiac.

Lower down, solo Meg Curry bivied at the top of the bolt ladder on the 5th and after a time moved her kit up to the start of the Black Tower pitch. She spent some time on that pitch, as it is kind of difficult and a little dangerous for an ElCap Rookie. She finished as I departed around 3pm and will most likely stay there for the time being, although it would be wise to fix one into the Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meg on the Black Tower with the “STICK OF THE DAY”.  

Lower down, another solo, Mike Donaldson, fixed three pitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike on the third of Zodiac.  Someone needs to get this lad some bright clothing!

Zenyatta Mondatta: The German team of "old men", Marc and Markus, climbed back onto the route today and were last seen finishing up on the third pitch. They are a competent crew and should have an interesting climb.  Take notice of the colors these men are sporting...  "If it's not bright, it's not right" and you can quote me on that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Markus leading on ZM’s third.

Genesis: The show is finally over, up on this seldom but recently soloed route. Kate and EE topped out around 1pm today. I sure enjoyed seeing them climb some of the cool features of the upper right side of the Nose. Cool stuff, that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kate leading the last pitch to the rim.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Show at the lip.

Nose: Alex and Uli made a run to Dolt Tower today to work out some of the kinks in their plan and seemed to hit it well. They came down in time for lunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“No Dude, I get the Snickers and you get the Power Bar”. Alex and Uli talking it over on DT.

Deputy Dog, and another Missouri Puke named Todd, climbed to DT for some excercise later in the morning.

In other news: A solo and several teams of climbers are ready to strike as soon as the weather settles, so the climbing in the near future should pick up and yield some good shots. But for now, things are pretty limited.

So that’s the way it is, on El Capitan, for this the 25th day of May, 2010.

Later Tom “the Bomb”.

What's that "poor style"

What's that "poor style" about anyways? Are YOU on ZM right now? Those guys do 1 big wall a year if they're lucky and last I heard they were going for TT or something easier because of this, so perhaps they are lacking a big stick, but that could mean they have really big balls.

Peace,

Dean

I was away for a few days,

I was away for a few days, but am now back at the computer and ready to concentrate on what really counts, the El Cap Report! Go Meg, go!

Cheers,

Doug

The Austrian three are

The Austrian three are talking about Zodiac when the weather settles a little.

Nice Photos from the big

Nice Photos from the big Stone!!
The Austrian three are sleeping or wath else!!!

LG Tom

I bet Marc & Markus aren't

I bet Marc & Markus aren't sporting a big stick.
Short or not. Poor style.

Hi Tom, thanks a lot for your

Hi Tom,
thanks a lot for your excellent report!
We are following my brother and his friend - the so-called "old men" from Germany, Marc and Markus. :-)
Dany and Steph

Yeeah Cool! I like the first

Yeeah

Cool!
I like the first light on Zodiac one. It gives me that Yosemite morning feeling.

Thanks!

Cheaters don't win. :-(

Cheaters don't win.
:-(

Thanks for another excellent

Thanks for another excellent report.

I think the monkier Telephoto Tom fits the best.

-Todd

Thanks Tom! I'm missing

Thanks Tom!

I'm missing the "Scenic Shot of the Day" though...

"Meg" on Zodiac is, I'm

"Meg" on Zodiac is, I'm guessing, Meghan Curry from AZ; a couple of routes removed from big wall rookie (although she needs to get rid of the friggin cheat stick). Stay stoked woman!
Great pics & report Tom, much appreciated in the wasteland of texASS.
Aloha,
John

Yay Tom. Good to see the

Yay Tom. Good to see the ladies representing on the captain.
Sullly

Awesome pics. Thank You!

Awesome pics. Thank You!

Tom, Thanks for your ElCap

Tom, Thanks for your ElCap Report. It's great. I'm following, my son, Mike Donaldson. Love to see the pictures!