ElCap Report 5/21/09

ElCap Report 5/21/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… really a sweet day here, even out in the meadow with the sun beating down.  The Nose still commands most of the teams on the mighty ElCap.  I hear that several teams are about to pounce but I will believe it when I see it.  SE face will be devoid of climbers east of Mescalito tomorrow…. Where are the Zodiac masses we usually see lined up on the route?  MIA. 
But not to worry because in spite of everything I am still here, hopefully at the Bridge itself tomorrow, to record all the action on the big stone Trades or not.  Mostly the Trades these days.

Today’s report is brought to you by The New Mexico Three, Mark, Mike and Tony, who hung out today to “Bask in the Glory” no matter how fleeting.  They told and retold their story, all the while draining Mickey’s Malts and talking to any Touron who would lend an ear.  Their day was well earned and they depart with rewards the value of which they are yet to learn. 
So settle in sports fans and come along on a beautiful spring day to the meadow of all meadows, the ElCap Meadow, to live the day with climbers just like you, living the dreams of a lifetime. 
Today’s ElCap Report in a moment away…

Zodiac:  The deliberate but tenacious team of Ben and Stewart were spotted this morning climbing above Peanut ledge, on their way to the top of this great route.  Stewart was on the sharp end on the scary lead above the ledge.
They were seen a pitch from the top around 4 and are off by now I assume.
Way to keep the spirit up boys! 
1)  Stewart climbing above Peanut ledge while Ben gives the ElCap salute

























Mescalito:  These two guys are plugging along on perhaps the best of the routes of the early 70’s.  They are not fast but they are moving upward and seem to be having a smooth trip up that beautiful section of wall.
2)  The boys hauling freight in the afternoon shade of Mescalito.

























The Nose:  What can I say…. Crowded, classic, smelly but still drawing them in like free money.  The two, two man teams in the lead yesterday are most likely just going over the top right now.  Holly and Jeff turned the Great Roof and are around camp 5 now.  Holly, an EC vet of many ascents made short work of the GR and the Pancake flake above.
3)  Jeff turning the Roof as Holly looks on.























Below two teams of two came up from ECT, did the KS and were heading onto the GR when I left.  A couple of guys blitzed in from the west via the 3D to increase the traffic on the upper part of the Nose.  A team of three made Dolt this afternoon and are most likely headed to ECT this evening.
4)  All aboard for Dolt Tower and above.
























Shield:  This great route has a team of two Aussies, from Cossey land in the Blue Mts.  Ivan and Matt (or maybe it’s Bill) were seen on the move to Grey ledges a couple of pitches below the Muir cut off.   They are moving well and it will be fun to get some more shots of the high angle climbing up on the bulging headwall.

5)  Golden Gate:  It looks like the gravitational field around the ECS weakened and Dude 1 and partner, Mason managed to escape onto the route.  I got a nice view of Mason doing the dicey traverse onto the route proper in the morning shade.  By late afternoon they were a couple of pitches higher.  Hopefully the gravitons will leave them alone up higher.

























Salathe:  I did see what I think are 3 Spaniards, heading off the block and up to the Headwall roof late in the afternoon.  Seems as though someone had come down from the top and was working on freeing that roof… or maybe they were filming someone working it?  Lower down a party of two was arriving at the Ear when I left.  Who R U?

6)  Lurking Fear:  I don’t shoot this or report on it BUT…. I did see Chase and Dave, both decked out in nice red shirts, too nice to not shoot, doing the so called “Grand Traverse”.  So to give them some well deserved Glory, I am posting up a shot of the boys… Bask in the glory boys, bask in the glory, for the slab trudge awaits you at the top!
























In other news:   The original pirate, Ammon McNeeley arrived last night and was a visitor in the meadow for a time…. Others floated through from time to time.  Hopefully we will finally be back at the bridge tomorrow as it appears the painting is done and everything is go on the road.  YES!!
The weather is perfect now so get out here all you pukes who can.  The weekend will be a mess but you will not notice the crowds if you are actually climbing on the Captian! 
On a personal note… notice that I have put a “donation” button on the site.  Hey, it ain’t free doing what I do even though you may think it is!  So if you enjoy the ECReport and the shots I give away too, then maybe you will buy me dinner sometime.  You can do this by making a donation to the site! 
TAKE ME TO DINNER!!  Whatever… donations are appreciated and will keep this old man and his silly little report going a bit longer… thanks Pukes!!!
So that’s the way it is for this the 21st day of May 2009.
Remember… Happiness makes up for in height what it lacks in length!
Later EC Tom

One more thing

Oh yeah, forgot to ask....how do I get a receipt to deduct the donation from my taxes?!?!?!? :P

Just added to the Cobra cause

Hey Tom, just bought you a dinner to help keep the site running. I got a couple friends going for the Shield in a couple weeks, I'm looking forward to the reading.

- Z-Clip (Cubicle Puke)



I arrive on June 9th. I will buy you dinner :)


Life seems more normal when the ElCap Report is coming....

at me. Thanks a ton Tom and please keep those reports coming. Stellar pics as always. Skully says he has heard rumours of an attempt on Tempest. Keep us all posted.



Thanks Tom!

Thanks for the reports. It's great to see such good dedicated work! Hopefully I'll see you this fall.


Always loving it Tom. Good

Always loving it Tom. Good work, and nice to see the video feature!


Thanks for the reports, good to see how Ivan, Bill and Matt are doing on the Sheild,much appreciated, Jane



p.s. those math questions are getting hard :P

A Favorite Site

In the past year of learning ST ropes this has become one of my favorite sites. So incredible to see the climbers and the rock up close and beautiful ! Would give anything to be in the Valley now. Fleeing responsibility is harder than it looks :DD Climb on Dudettes and Dudes and have fun for yo too. Joy, lrl

Thanks for the reports Tom,

Thanks for the reports Tom, much appreciated.

Jody's evil twin

Thanks Tom

John Hansen from Super topo. Great to see the reports again. I met you at the bridge one time and always look forward to your report. Can't make it to the Vally till the fall. Throw in a shot down the river once in a while for all us people wishing we were there. Donations in the works,, well worth it.



Good report & pics, Tom.
I've been hearing rumors of a Tempest attempt......How 'bout it?
You've got the big eye.