ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/18/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather didn’t exactly clear off today after a night of intermittent showers. Fortunately, the storm turned out to be a “Sissy Storm”. It never dumped and the rain was mostly an inconvenience. New teams were on the rock and the “old” ones were climbing up and some off. The long term forecast doesn’t look real solid like one would expect for mid May. Sunday may bring some showers and cooler weather. Until then the climbing conditions should be good. There was not a lot of action today and the Touron population was really low here at the Bridge.

So… buckle in, tighten your laces, and grab your aid rack, because you are coming with me onto some of the best climbs on the Captain.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The new sleeker, more honed, and more motivated Bob Lindsey showed up on the first pitch of this usual popular route this afternoon. Bob came in last year, over weight, under trained, and with unrealistic expectations, only to get the strait dope from the bridge rats who basically said to go home and prepare more thoroughly. Bob, in his 50’s, took the advice to heart, lost 65 pounds, trained by soloing some grade 5’s in Zion and resolved to come back and climb ElCap. We are all hoping he and his partner have the best of luck and a great climbing experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Bob Lindsey leading the first pitch on Zodiac.

　

The Trip: Richie and Josie finished up by removing their kit this morning and we expect to see them down here soon.

Lower down Bryn and Chris climbed from the top of the last bolt ladder, where they waited out the bad weather, to the top and were off by mid afternoon today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Wet cleaning high on the Trip.

Lower down yet, a climber was seen finishing the first pitch this afternoon.

Genesis: EE and Kate hauled kit up the two fixed pitches after staying on ECT last night. By late morning Kate was out on the sharp end on one of the A4 pitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Kate getting it done an Genesis’s 3^rd pitch.

Tribal Rite: The Mammoth boys, Josh and Brett, climbed the first pitch of this route, which starts off the top of the Boot, late this morning. By afternoon they were climbing the wide section of pitch two and then did the A4 part later in the day, without incident. A rock fall was heard this afternoon around 2pm and we suspect it was something pulled off by these guys or the team next to them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Starting the first pitch on Tribal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Climbing the wide section on pitch two.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

Working through the A4 part of the second pitch.

Shield: The three guys were not seen on the upper pitches of this classic SW Face route and we assume they are long gone.

Golden Gate: I did see the two guys, who bivied in the Alcove last night, jug their fixed lines and then worked a couple of pitches on a top rope. They recorded some air time but stayed with the program.

Scenic shot of the Day: This mornings sky above the ElCap Meadow.  Shot taken from the Bridge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

In other news: The Bridge was very quiet this morning until Denise, Soren and Russ showed up with Cobras and a nice supply of Cheez-its and sandwich materials! Yes!! After that, even though the weather turned windy and cold with some drizzle, the Bridge Rats came from everywhere to enjoy the company and food. My posse has not yet returned from Jail House but a good time was had by all anyway!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

 

Bridge Rats basking in the glory!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

 

Bridge Rats, Jimmy, Alex, Mike, and Jon hanging by the Van.

ElCap awaits my friends!! So get it packed, get it hauled to the base, but most of all get it on the climb!! Hey, a buddy of mine is fixing on the Dihedral Wall and is looking for an experienced wall partner. He is an ElCap veteran with many great routes behind him and much press on the Report!! Let me know if you know someone wanting to do the Dihedral.

So that’s the way it is for this the 18^th day of May, 2010.

Later Tom