ElCap Reports

 

ElCap Report 5/16/10

By Tom Evans

Yo.. A change in the weather blew in today with high clouds and some wind from the west. Not all the parties on the Cap are going to get off in time to miss the storm, expected to last two days. Lots of Tourons at the Bridge today, as the climbers were driven into the meadows for some quiet time.

The weather is expected to improve later in the week with 0% chance of precipitation by Wednesday. So you have a couple of down days to plan for your great ascent of the Captain.

As it is kind of late and my energy level is plummeting I will get to the business……

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world.

Zodiac: The Dutch climber, Neik, bailed from the start of the White Circle this morning after dropping some essential 5inch cams. Too bad as he was going well after some difficulties on the Black Tower pitch late yesterday.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!   Neik bails from Zodiac!!

Lost in America: Graham, former SAR member went on this route this morning with Who? and climbed two pitches by the time I departed.

Trip: Richie and Josie are moving along but may be moving into the wet zone by evening. It would be best if they stopped short of the bolt ladders as the wall is steep and protective. If they move up another pitch they will have an interesting story to tell Wed.

Lower down Bryn and Chris moved up a couple above the slab pitch and should be ok when the weather goes south.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Early morning light on the Slab pitch of the Trip.

Mescalito: Tommy and Mikel climbed to the Bismarck ledge late yesterday and were on the move today. Tommy flashed the notorious pitch above that ledge and they were at the Bow by the time I left with two pitches to the top. Most likely they are off by now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Tommy Caldwell dispatching the infamous Bismarck pitch.

Tribal: A couple of guys, from Mammoth, Josh Huckabee and Brett Dodds started yesterday and by today had climbed the right side of ECT to the ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

Tribal climbers arrive at ECT while Nose climbers are trying to bail.

Genesis: Kate and EE started in the real business on this seldom done route today. Kate lead the first pitch and EE the second. It looked pretty thin up there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

EE leading the 2^nd on Genesis.

The Nose: A couple of teams were seen climbing the Great Roof and were above the Glowering Spot by the time I left. They should be off before the weather caves in.

Lower down the team of two from yesterday stayed on the route but by ECT had decided to bail. However they lacked the necessary experience and fumbled around for a couple hours trying to figure out how to get the bag down. The members of the party were a few hundred feet apart and were making no progress by the time I left. Maybe the Tribal guys will take pity on them and give some instruction.

Muir: Holly and Lorna were a few pitches from the top as I left this afternoon. They are looking good and should be off late this evening.

Shield: The guys from yesterday slowed way down today and burned a lot of time on the pitch above the Triple Cracks. I hope they make Chicken Head ledge by dark as it will be nice to have a place to stand for a change.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

 

Burning time on the Shield.

Salathe: I did see a group of three guys high on the route. They were starting the Headwall when I left and will be lucky to make Long Ledge, much less the top, before the heavens open up in the morning.

I spotted a couple of very colorful guys climbing to the Ear this afternoon. Hope they are not thinking of going upward during the next couple of days.

Out west a young couple headed for the Fear to start tomorrow… I think not… but maybe they have wet suits!

Scenic shot of the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

In other news: The Bridge was awash in all kinds of Tourons making for a busy day. Several climbers came by and the usual suspects stay for as long as they could stand it. Ranger Jesse came by to bask in the glory of his 12 hour climb of Lurking fear with buddy Roger. He looked none the worse for wear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tourons infesting the Bridge.

Mostly the day was cloudy, windy and I am off to bed as soon as I post this report.

So that’s the way it is for this the 16^th day of May, 2010.

Be safe… later ECP’s