ElCap Reports

 ElCap Report 5/14/10

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Things heated up on the Cap and at the Bridge today. The weather was partly cloudy most of the day and the teams were surging on the Captain.

Lots of climbers drifted through along with a fair number of Tourons by late in the day. You know never to believe all the Church or Government tells you, but you can trust in me, as I have been sent by the High Command!

So pay attention Pukes… clear your agenda, and saddle up, because you are riding with Old Tom, on a journey to the very soul of the Big Stone. You’re going to send with the senders and bail with the bailers. Only I can sort out the hosers from the posers, dish the dirt and bask in the glory.

So here it is …Today’s ElCap Report…. written just for you… unique in all the world.

Zodiac: Late in the day I spotted the solo Niek, from Holland, on the first pitch of this vacant route. The lad was looking sharp in a bright yellow shirt as he moved right along…. Blasting tomorrow.

Virginia/Trip: Snail eyed Richie and lovely companion Josie were up late this morning but made up for it later in the day with some good climbing high on the VA section of the Trip. They should be on the regular route as I type these lines.

High above them the two man team from yesterday were seen climbing the center section of the Trip and heading toward the Bolt ladders late in the day.

Below them the team of Bryn (Yes, John O’Conner, your buddy is on the big stone!) and Chris climbed from the 1^st on VA to the corner where the Trips 5^th shoots left. The rock looks really cool there but around here cool looking rock is usually shitty rock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool looking but shitty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hammering on the 2^nd of Virginia.

Mescalito: The solo Dutch climber, Gerka, didn’t climb off late yesterday but did finish up early in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gerka going over the top on Mescalito.

Lower down a new team of Tommy Caldwell and Mikael jugged to Stork ledge and then headed past the Sea Gull to the long, right leaning corner leading to the Molar Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mikael Sribhadung on the sharp end, traversing off Stork ledge to the Sea Gull.

Genesis: Kate and EE made Lay Lady Ledge today and hauled kit late in the afternoon.

Nose: The route was very congested today with too many climbers to keep track of. There was a party of 5 that nighted at Dolt and climbed to the Jardine Traverse late in the morning. They had a discussion while untangling miles of line and the result was:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!

Higher a team of two climbed off ECT and were last seen at Camp 5 around 4pm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Climbing into Camp 5 on the Nose.

A couple of teams breezed up the Stove legs and were moving toward the Grey Bands late in the day and I suspect they were just on a practice run.

Lower down a couple of wall style teams were grinding up the Legs with a ways to go to Dolt when I departed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Jamming in the Legs.

Muir: I did see a crew of 3 climbers, from Montana, on the approach pitches to Grey Ledges this afternoon. They are not shy of freight and have their work cut out for them.

I didn’t see Lorna and Holly but hear they are up there.

Salathe/Freerider: The lower parts of the route were jammed with parties, none of whom were making a very swift ascent. No one was above the Ear by 4pm. I counted 3 or 4 parties over there. I did talk to Brad and Mason at the Bridge this afternoon and they are psyched to get on their Heart to Golden Gate variation tomorrow.

Lurking Fear: I didn’t get out there today but talked to Roger who is going in a push with Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey tomorrow early. They will be in good company as Big Andy and Lance are also going to push the route at the same time… should be fun… I will try to get out there to report on the action.

Name today’s Scenic shot of the day:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news: Scott Jansen donated the beers (but not Cobras!) and carbon based mass consumables to the Bridge crew today much to everyone’s pleasure. Also Cmac donated some $$$$ to the site specifically to get some Cobras so the season could officially begin!! Thanks Chris!

Many climbers stopped by today to hang out or just shoot the shit with the crew.  Even "The Boss",  Ken Yager, third from the left, showed up to check the scene out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Bridge Rats late in the Day.

An old friend of mine, Richard Sideman, with whom I climbed back in the DC area in the 60’s, stopped by to visit for several hours. We had some good laughs recounting our glory days!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Richard and Tom 43 years later.

So that’s the way it is for this the 14^th day of May, 2010.

Bye Bye …. Tom