ElCap Reports

 

ElCap Report 5/13/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Well, well Cubicle Pukes and Internet Geeks of all kinds… your day of salvation has finally arrived because ElCap Pics is finally back in command at the Bridge!! Yes, I arrived yesterday and rested up last night for the new climbing season, beginning today. The weather here is not the norm for this time of year… sort of weird like last Spring was. More April than May it seems. The crew is assembled and the Captain is spitting them off left and right.

Note however, that all routes from, but not including Mescalito, east to but not including, Aurora are closed until at least August because of Falcon nesting in the North American Wall area. So don’t plan on those routes. You can climb the first 5 pitches of any closed route but please don’t because you will just be adding to the worsening condition of some for nothing but practice. There are still a zillion routes you can do.

So here it comes to you, the first of the Spring seasons ElCap Reports… written just for you…. Unique in all the world.   

 

Zodiac: There is a solo, Niek, from Holland starting on the route tomorrow. Don’t let him keep you off the route as he will be easy enough to pass.

Virginia: Rich Copeland and his girlfriend, Josie, are a couple of pitches up on this variation of the Trip. They were climbing rather slowly today as I think Rich is in love and unable to concentrate on the task at hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rich and Josie on Virginias 2^nd pitch.

Tangerine Trip: A team of two moved right along today and were last seen with the leader doing the so called “Slab” pitch when I departed around 4:30pm.

Mescalito: T2 and partner were up at the base this afternoon getting their stuff down after deciding that they were in danger of getting the chop as they just missed being smashed by a 5 ft block, sent their way inadvertently by the team over on the Rt. Side of ECT.

Higher up the team of two, who had been on the route for a time, climbed off this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Team of two climbing the last pitch, on their way off Mescalito.

Below, a solo, Gerka, from Holland, was seen climbing the next to last pitch as I departed and I figure is sick of the whole thing by now and will push off the route by dark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gerka, cleaning gear up to the Bow, high on Mescalito.

Genesis: EE and Big Wall Kate were seen climbing toward Lay Lady Ledge late in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EE leading toward LLL with Kate at the belay.

Nose: A team with just a small pack climbed to bivy at Dolt Tower yesterday and today were seen on Pancake Flake as I departed. I have no idea of what they are using for the bivy but the pack they are sporting seems way too small for a three day ascent… As sister Sara would say "How's that suffering thing working out for ya boys?!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jardine Traverse went well for the team with the small pack.

Lower down a pretty good team climbed the Legs and were at ECT as I departed.

Behind them was a team arriving at Dolt as I left and a couple of other teams struggling up the Legs behind them. I don’t know about these lads… bail bait?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aiding in the Legs early in the day.

Muir: My sources tell me that the  locally famous woman’s team of Lorna and Holly are at Heart Ledge after climbing the lower pitches of this Chouinard Herbert classic. I will try to get some shots of them from out west tomorrow.

I did see a team of two on the pitch above Mammoth Terrace doing for maybe the 3D, but my viewing angle was poor and they just might be Holly and Lorna a bit higher on the Muir than I anticipated.

Salathe: Several teams were milling around the vicinity of the Hollow Flake pitch this afternoon. Rumor has it that one is Mason and Brad wanting to do a left side of the Heart start to Golden Gate.

Golden Gate: I did see pro climber and media lackey, Cedar Wright and buddy Nick Martino rap in from the top yesterday to work on the route. I think I saw them taking a bag down lower today, maybe to make a stash in the Alcove.

Out West: I hear, but can’t confirm, that a couple of teams are heading up on Lurking Fear in the very near future.

In other news: The “Ask a Climber” program started today with some new props to help explain the ElCap scene to our Touron friends. The ElCap shuttle bus has not started making its run yet so make arrangements for your own transport. The “fixed” ropes, from the Heart were taken down a few days ago due to their dangerous condition. Not to worry, new ones have allready replaced them!

The falls are booming and Spring has sprung so come on out if only to visit. The official opening of the Bridge has been placed on hold for the moment as no Cobras have shown up and thus the proceedings must be delayed. Hint:… someone… anyone…. Bring some Cobras to we can get the Bridge rolling!  I did talk with Chris Mac and Tommy Caldwell this morning in the Cafe.  Chris is here to do some routes he hasn't done to get the beta for the new Big Walls 3rd edition.  Noted for his obscure guides to anywhere that will make a buck, he is just off the wildly successful "Bouldering Guide to the Bonneville Salt Flats" and has some down time to climb here.  The reticent Tommy, is here to do some fun climbing, and plans a return to Mescalito in the Fall when the temps are right and the route dry.  As they say... a quiet man makes few enemies.

We have some other issues to highlight but I will do so over a few reports so as not to burden you with more than you can handle at one reading.

So that’s the way it is for this the 13^th day of May 2010.

Until tomorrow… your man with the ruthless eye on the scene representing just for you….signing off for now.

Ansel Evans