ElCap Report 10/9/2014

ElCap Report 10/9/14

By Tom Evans

Yo… Nicer day today with only the slightest trace of smoke.  Also, the weather has cooled to more Fall-like conditions.  Highway 140 is closed until further notice doe to the air tanker crash a few days ago.  Sadly the pilot was killed and our thoughts are with his family.  Some nice routes are on the agenda at the moment.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The two man team, climbed from the MOZ this morning, and headed to Peanut ledge, as I departed.

1)  Hauling kit to the end of the MOZ pitch this morning.






























2)  A solo climber, Neil Davis, climbed the direct start to the trip today and was spotted later in the afternoon slathering on sun screen.






























Tempest:  Paul Gagner got the best pitch of the day, climbing the “Pecking Order” to the “Sharks Fin” into the early afternoon.

3)  Paul leading up to the Picking Order off the belay where they bivied.





























4)  Paul climbing the left side of the Sharks Fin.






























5)  Paul crossing the Sharks Fin to reach the belay at the end of the pitch.  The Sharks Fin looks to be in fragile condition so climbers beware!






























6)  Jeremy Aslaksen cleaning while Paul hauls bags to the belay at the Sharks Fin.





























Mescalito:  Skot Richards and John Rigg, both recently off EC routes, are now established on this mega classic route.


Nose:  Several teams were seen on the Nose today and all were wall style.

7)  Scott passed the King Swing with the GRAB OF THE DAY!!  Running on the Tan Band is not easy and takes extra effort to reach the flakes leading to the corner.






























8)  Scott and his partner Jake, did the KS in an often considered but not seen before, way.  I always wondered if there would be enough rope for the leader to climb the Boot and do the swing to Eagle Ledge while his partner remained on Texas Flake.  As you see here, there was enough rope and then they hauled the bag from Texas Flake directly to Eagle ledge!  Nice!!




























9)  Just behind the above mentioned team another wall team climbed Texas Flake and continued in the traditional way.  Here they are with the second jugging on part of the outside of the great flake.






























Higher the Spanish team from the past several days topped out early in the afternoon.


10)  A mixed team climbed to Camp 5 and probably higher to bivy tonight.  Here they are turning the corner on the Great Roof.  Love those yellow pants!!






























Lower a couple of teams climbed to Dolt Tower.

11)  Triple Direct:  A team climbed across the traverse to Camp 4 in the afternoon.  Here they are sorting kit just before climbing the corner to Camp 4






























Salathe:  I did see a team climbing above Hollow Flake but they had not made the Ear by the time I departed around 3pm.

In other news:  The International Climbers Meet is going on now and climbing ranger, Ben Doyle, took charge of a large group who worked on the ElCap Base trail today.  Alex Honnold took a day out of his schedule to work with the trail crew.

12)  Here, in the grey hoodie, Alex is giving a brief question and answer to the volunteers.




























So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 9th day of October, 2014.

Later, Capt. Tom



Tem Climbing Above Hollow Flake

Hi tom, do you have pics, from the team climbing above the Hollow Flake ??


From Tom:  Most certainly.

Texas to Eagle

Not sure if it matters but we had a 70m rope. Not sure if a 60 would allow a person to make the KS with the belayer on Texas with a 60m.