ElCap Report 10/28/14

By Tom Evans

Yo… What a beautiful day to end the shooting season!  Great weather has been the hallmark of fall season, 2014.  I will be leaving tomorrow, so this is the last report of the year.  I hope you have enjoyed reading and seeing the exploits of all the climbers who came and climbed on the greatest climbing rock on the planet… our own… El Capitan.  If you got pics or have not donated to the site, I hope you will consider doing so, as the expense of doing photography and the report is great.  Many thanks to all who have supported the site, and what I do here.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you.. unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac:  Phill Wesseler supported by, Mash Alexander, climbed the route in a push today.  Here Phill is leading the third pitch.































2)  Phill and Mash on the Black Tower.






























2a)  Higher up the solo, Steve from JTree, climbed out of the Circle and was heading to Peanut Ledge when I left.  Here he is coming back to the belay at the start of the MOZ pitch.






























Lower down another solo, Nathan, from Canada, is also doing a push.  He was not far behind Mash and Phill.

3)  Trip:  Todd is getting the pitches done and here he is on the 8th.






























The Italians bailed from the end of the 5th by down aiding the pitch and rappin off.


Jim Beyer spent the day resting on his portaledge.  He has most of the route done and should be off in a few days.


Nose:  Several parties are strung out along the route.  THE BIG NEWS OF THE DAY was the new woman’s speed record, set by Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat.  The new record knocked off 37 minutes from the old one and now stands at 5:02.  Below are some shots from today’s climb.

4)  Libby on the Boot just after she dropped an aider, which hindered her a bit, especially on the last pitch.  They changed blocks after that, so each lead half of the climb.  This shot is for you Alex Honnold!





























5)  They have a different way to do the King Swing, where Mayan does it and climbs high into the Grey Bands before Libby jugs off the Boot.  Here is Mayan clearing the rope as she goes higher.






























6)  At the Great Roof a large party was kind enough to wait for them to pass, before going on the roof themselves.  Here Libby is belaying in the middle of the pitch, while Mayan climbs higher.





























7)  Higher up Mayan fixed Libby to the corner of the Roof.  Notice the long loop of rope out to Mayan, from that belay.  One just can’t afford to fall on this kind of climbing!






























8)  They continued short fixing, as seen here on the pitch into Camp 5.






























9)  Mayan leading off Camp 5.






























Later, on the last pitch, Libby got caught against a bolt and had problems escaping the biner, due to rope tension.  Still they made a fine and bold ascent and can be proud of their effort.  They may go again Friday as they want to lower the time into the 4 hour range.  They went Friday and did 4:43 which is about the limit for the system they are using.  Congratulations women!!


10)  Salathe:  Several teams were on the route today.  This mixed team is topping out, after a night on Long Ledge.






























11)  Lower down, the Polish team, of Maciek and Czarek, are on Freerider and are seen here on the Monster crack.  Love the shirts boys!!






























12)  While shooting out west I took a moment and shot that end of the meadow.  It is very nice out there, with few visitors.





























In other news:  All the teams on the wall are in good positions and should complete their climbs without any real problems.  Best of luck to Tommy and Kevin, on their mega-project, this November.

I will try to be back in the Spring, when the falls are booming and the Valley is reborn.  Take care my friends, and stay safe.

So that’s the way it is, on this last day of my season, the 28th day of October, 2014.

Later, Capt. Tom signing off.




For a great season of reports and incredible pictures! Enjoy the cruise!

Always very cool!

I was fortunate to spend 4 climbing seasons in Yosemite in the early '70's. Its no less beautiful, just a lot more climbers. Thanks Tom for your efforts. Its a long way from Carderock isn't it?

It was a pleasure...

...to greet you in the meadows. my climbing days are gone but my son, Chris, introduced me to your blog and I had the pleasure of your company for a few days last week. Sterling job Captain and I look forward to your return in 2015. Best wishes, Dave


... for your beautiful photos


Thanks Tom and Go STEVE!!

Thanks for the pics Tom!

Way to go Steve! Looking good up there!

Russ @ FishProducts

Thanks for your effort to

Thanks for your effort to bring us info every day!

Thanks for the great season of Reports, Tom!

Have a great winter!

congrats to "The Girls," and kudos Tom

Tom- you've seen me write it before, but I'll write it again: I love you the El Cap report! Can't wait to see the photos!

Congratulations to the women

Congratulations to the women breaking the female speed record. Only a handful of people worldwide can climb the Nose in 5.02, male or female. Reflect on how far the sport has progressed from the time of the first one day ascent of the Nose. Lynn Hill's landmark free ascent, followed by the amazing series of subsequently faster and faster ascents. Who could have predicted that the new generation of climber's would use the Nose as a racetrack, some going so fast as to treat it like a pre-lunch warmup? And for some climbers, it may even be a pre-breakfast warmup! Truly mind blowing.


As I sit here in the library of my university cramming for a Biochemistry exam, your amazing reporting and quality photos keep my dreams alive.
Thanks tom!