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ElCap Report 10/27/2022

Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 16:32

ElCap Report 10/27/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo.. It looks like I will be staying a while longer, as weather permits.  So, ditch the cubicle, rack up, tune in, and ride along with Capt. Tom as we explore all things ElCap.  Lots of action on not so many routes.  The Big Lie is in its latter stages now as the guides huff and puff and the imposters chat and lie about waiting for the essential ropes to be fixed for them to jug. Joe Baker, tried to hire YMS guides to take them up but YMS wanted no part of it... so they are using "pirate guides" to haul   them up.  It is getting late this morning in the Café so I will stop jawing and get this report out to you.

 

Today’s ElCap Report.. written just for you… unique in all the world!

1)  The Lynn Hill Traverse side-steps the old pendulum pitch to gain the Gray Ledges, the key to the upper Nose.  Some challenging moves here but many clutch at the few bolts to help them across.  This sharp looking team did a good job on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  We have had a few 3Ders crossing over to Camp 4 where it joins up with the Nose.  This is the pitch into Camp 4 as seen from out west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  This sharp dressed climber is making the lower-out from the Boot to the next belay in this shot from “Out West”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  This lower-out from the top of the Sickle ledge system, is more popular than the, more modern, upper free traverse.  And a lot easier to execute! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  The Shield is very popular this season with team after team exploring its upper environs.  This team has done the roof and is now leading off on the long, relatively easy, pitch to the dreaded “Groove” pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  The “High Lonesome” up there on the vast Shield Headwall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  One thing you can almost always count on is high winds up on the Shield Headwall.  Best to get control of your ropes and keep them under control.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8) Grace, on big lower-out from the center of the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Andrew and Grace seen here running their system like a well-oiled machine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  The support team for the nearly blind climber, Eaton Armon, got the wrong information for the pitch above Peanut Ledge and arrived without any #5s and were unable to climb the pitch.  So, they waited 13 hours until the team of Grace and Andrew arrived to save them.  Grace led the pitch and is hauling kit in this shot of Andrew, cleaning the pitch while taking a line up for the stranded team to escape on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  This is a shot of the famous Enduro pitch on Salathe/Freerider from way out west.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  A memory from 2007 I think… Ammon McNeeley hooking in the White Circle while climbing Surgeon General.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Some “Bridge Rats” hanging at the ElCap Bridge, before NPS, sadly, turned it into a bus stop….  2007 most likely.

 

 

 

 

14) Yesterday a got this shot of a NAVY AWAX plane, heading to the Nevada Test range for training.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The weather heads are telling us there may be a winter storm on the horizon... this might be a harbinger for the end of the season.

 

So that's the way it is, on this 27th day of October, 2022

Capt. Tom ... still here.. just for you!

#1Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 18:11.

Unfortunate

Sucks that they didn't get the send of the route due to not paying attention to the topo

#2Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 17:51.

Zodiac Climb and Rescue

Tom,
Thank you so much for the outstanding photos and coverage of Andrew and Grace on Zodiac!!!
Wow what an ending!!! Very proud of our son Andrew and his friend Grace. Not only a great climb, but doing what needs to be done to help out another team in trouble. Way to go!!!
Appreciate all you do!

#3Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 17:09.

The Lanky Brit Progress?

Anyone know how the lanky Brit is getting on?

#4Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 17:01.

The Charade ascends

The forecast is showing decent weather for the next 4-5 days. So hopefully that charade going up El Cap with be over and done with soon.
Team "Fading Vision" is certainly doing a noble thng by bringing up someone who is about to lose their sight.
But boy did they get lucky that Grace and Andrew were able to save their day.
As always thanks again for the updates and fine photography

Mtn Tradman

#5Submitted by Anonymous on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 16:50.

No 5s for Zodiac?

Do people even look at the topo gear list? I mean, WTF?

#6Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 10/31/2022 - 03:12.

Not having 5s for Zodiac

Having done the route few times back in the 90’s to early 2000’s from the traditional two days to in a push. We never took pieces bigger than a 4- in-fact the only pitch with mandatory big pro was the nipple. I think that between my brother and me we might have climb zodiac around dozen times.
The fact that pitch 14 usted to have bolts- placed by Charly- the original bolts!! I guess some one chopped those original bolts