ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/25/14

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Nice day here until some high wind and low clouds came in around 3pm and by 5 we had some showers.  Clear tomorrow they say.  Chantel was cooking along, in more ways than one, yesterday.  She had a great time going on her attempt to do the first woman’s solo NIAD, yesterday.   Unfortunately it was unusually warm yesterday, with little wind on the cliff, and she ran out of water at Camp 4 with still over 1200ft to climb.  She was forced to switch to survival mode and ended up a couple hours over 24.  She did run into a team high on the wall but as a solo decided not to ask for water.  It was a great effort on her part and she is disappointed for sure, but will be back in the Spring.

Libby and Mayan made a Nose run today…read all about it below.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Surgeon General:  Marek finally topped out this afternoon after 2 weeks on the route.  He has left a bag on top of the route and would like to have someone porter it off for him.  Let us know if you are interested.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Lunar Eclipse:  Kenny and partner are getting high on the route, as seen here at the belay under the Devil’s Brow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Zodiac:  The two man team climbed into the Circle this morning, and were finishing the Nipple pitch as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Tangerine Trip:  Todd Koziczkwski, climbing solo, started the direct start today and is seen here leaving the belay at the top of the first pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Jim Beyer continued up virgin ground for most of the day.  It looked pretty thin up there, as he was looking for some hooking when I got this shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Later Jim was seen at one of the anchor stations on the regular Iron Hawk route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Nose:  Libby and Mayan started at 6am for what turned out to be a training run.  There was a strange temperature inversion that mixed cold and warm air and I was unable to get a shot until later in the morning due to atmospheric turbulence.  Here Mayan is leading into the Grey Bands while Libby belays off the Boot.  Long run out with no gear!  The woman has nerve!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  A little later, Mayan led the Lynn Hill Traverse, with a huge loop of rope out after short fixing Libby.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Here Mayan, who led the second half of the climb, is leading to Camp 4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Here Mayan has Libby short fixed to some of her own gear, while she finishes the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Later Mayan continued up the Pancake Flake, after fixing Libby to the belay at the corner, of the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Higher I got this shot of Libby cleaning gear to Camp 6.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Over on Freerider, Jesse Huey, climbed with Will Stanhope, who I shot in the chimney above Hollow Flake Ledge. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Honnold and long time partner Josh McCoy are taking a serious look at the Muir, after doing 16 pitches the other day.  A couple of other teams have the same idea too.

Freerider has gotten some attention of late as several parties vie for the coveted free ascent.  Rumor is that a Polish team did send the route over the last several days.

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 25^th day of October, 2014.

Later, “Ansel” Evans